30 August 2008

Melissa Etheridge


Just came back from a wonderful evening with Melissa Etheridge, at Los Angeles's Greek Theatre. It was a nice way to end an otherwise stressful week, as withdrawal symptoms from discontinuing a bad medication has clobbered me mentally all week.

"All-American Girl," one of the tracks from the Yes I Am album, started things off, as Melissa performed her playlist in the format of her life story, from moving to Los Angeles in 1982 through her recent bout with cancer. Most of my favorite numbers, as well as a few numbers I hadn't heard of (including one live-only number) were played.

I'm so glad that I was able to mingle with a large crowd and enjoy myself; the crowd itself was well-mixed, including many straights and men, though overwhelmingly white. Lots of gorgeous lesbians tonight.

Kari Steele, the midday DJ at KBIG-FM (104.3), did a pre-show talk about how Melissa gets better with each passing tour, and I felt that she was indeed on the money.

Toward the latter part of the show, things got quite patriotic and political, as Melissa sang a number that was about Barack Obama; the crowd cheered wildly. I could also see an Obama pin on Melissa's guitar strap.

Looking forward to another Melissa concert in the future, certainly - and preferably during Obama's presidential term. Until then - lesbian power, baby!

29 August 2008

John McCain's running mate

An announcement this morning named Sarah Palin, the governor of Alaska, as John McCain's running mate. This is the only second-ever presidential ticket with a woman on board, the first being the failed 1984 Democratic ticket with Geraldine Ferraro.

Palin's selection is further proof that the McCain campaign is only interested in serving the Republicans' evangelical Christian base (one that McCain himself had antagonized in the past), given Palin's stances on a variety of social issues. Beyond that, however, her track record and stances on other issues are vague at best. McCain will find it far more difficult to press Obama on his inexperience, as Palin has even less experience.

My lifelong Republican father, currently in Anchorage, remarked that McCain has made a big mistake in picking Palin, and that this will assure Obama of victory. The Democrats are showing unusual strength in Alaska, he says, and this must be due to Senator Ted Stevens and Representative Don Young, both Republican incumbents, being embroiled in corruption scandals.

While I am pleased to know that the next Administration will have either a black President or a female Vice President, I am not pleased to know that the female Vice President, if that happens, will be reactionary Sarah Palin. Moreover, the Republicans now have an Arizona-Alaska ticket, comprising of my two least favorite states in the Union; given what I know about those states, hell will freeze over before I ever vote for a ticket like that.

Yahoo! analysis

28 August 2008

Barack Obama's speech

I've been tuning out the Democratic National Convention, and will tune out the Republican one too. But I am following the major developments through blogs and other sources.

Democracy Cell Project has just posted the full text of Obama's speech, one that truly reveals what kind of a man he is, not only as an orator, but as a public official. As far as I can tell, he wants to eliminate the severe ideological rift that has divided America into Red vs. Blue throughout W's presidency; he is running for the President of One United States of America, not the President of the Democratic Party or the President of the Blue States. This is a stark contrast to the Reagan-Bush-McCain program, which is strictly for its followers and supporters only.

Obama's speech

Now, the Democrats need to back this up with organization and semantics, as well as global alliances with like-minded foreign political parties. These are items that the Republicans have been far better at.

Lots of Moonie information

I just came across a page, maintained by a former Moonie, with lots of links showing the true colors of the Unification Church as an evil cult out to destroy democracy and families (despite its "pro-family" mantras). Its links to the Bush family and American conservatives, to former fascist dictatorships in South Korea and Taiwan, and to Japanese fascists and mafia members, are well documented as well.

Freedom of Mind

26 August 2008

Odds and Ends

1974 Hyundai Pony Coupe Concept

I spent a few hours last night, Googling more information on the Hyundai Pony, which was the subject of my previous post. As it turns out, Italdesign, the designer of the car, also came up with a sports coupe concept of the car. While the basic structure, complete with 82 hp 1.2L engine and 4-speed manual transmission, was identical, the body was completely avant-garde. The interior had a one-spoke steering wheel and other futuristic concepts that found their way to 1980s production cars (such as Citroen XM and Hyundai's own Grandeur). Very few people know that this car even existed, and most people (me included) end up mistaking it for a 1982 DeLorean (some say that the DeLorean's design was inspired by this car).

This version of Pony was never produced. While the Japanese automakers had similar sports cars based on economy car platforms (some versions of Toyota Corolla in particular), South Korea at this time was a primitive Third World country with little demand for sports cars. And no export market was going to buy a sports car from such a country. In other words, the market didn't exist. By 1990, things changed though, and Hyundai was producing an Excel-based sports car, called the Scoupe, for many markets, including the US. The modern-day Tiburon is based on the Elantra, and is a spiritual descendant of both the Scoupe and this Pony. Hyundai went on to also set up a design studio in Irvine, California, where the HCD-series of concept cars continue to be born.

Description and more photos

In the meantime, my trip preparations are progressing well. I have just received my supply of KRW 500,000, though I am dismayed to find that it came in 240 (!) banknotes, way too unwieldy. The currency exchange sent me KRW 200,000 in KRW 1,000 notes, adding up to two bundles of 100 banknotes each. (The US equivalent would be carrying $200 in singles!) The rest came in KRW 5,000 and KRW 10,000 notes; 10,000 is the highest denomination, even though it's worth only $10 and therefore still inadequate for the sky-high price tags of Seoul. Even higher-denomination banknotes (KRW 50,000 and KRW 100,000) are in the works, and I'd love to have a few, but they won't hit circulation until next year. At least these banknotes are the new 2006 issue, smaller than the previous design and therefore less unwieldy.

Wikipedia has some sample photos of the banknotes I just got.

25 August 2008

Some automotive history

1970s Hyundai Pony (Wikipedia photo, from Malta in 2006)

Today, I made a post over at Christy's Art Blog, where I am a co-admin, talking about my upcoming Seoul trip, as well as the presence of a Korean bell right in the US, a 1976 gift of South Korea's fascist military dictatorship. I also stated that another enduring legacy of that otherwise nightmarish era is the presence of good automotive infrastructure and industry in South Korea, much like the Nazi rule left Germany with a network of Autobahns and a world-renowned auto industry.

I went back to the trusty Wikipedia and ended up with a few links dealing with how the South Korean automotive industry, and specifically a relative latecomer named Hyundai Motor Company, got its start.

The story goes back to British Leyland, and its Managing Director George Turnbull. As he left the company in 1972, he took two Morris Marinas with him - and he was hired by Hyundai, which was already building the Ford Cortina but wanted a car of its own design, partly to populate the new expressways that Hyundai's construction arm had just built. The new car used the basic underpinnings of the Marina, some parts from the Cortina, and a Mitsubishi rear-drive powertrain, topped off with an Italdesign body. Called the Pony, it entered production in 1975, and was exported to Ecuador shortly thereafter. It was eventually sold in parts of Europe as well, and a redesign in 1982 brought it to the UK and Canada too. It was a runaway success; about half the cars in South Korea around 1980 were Ponys, including the vast majority of taxicabs.

My father owned a '79 Pony - the only Hyundai ever owned by my immediate family. He had bought it, when only 100,000 cars were around in South Korea (as opposed to over 10 million today), driving was considered a professional skill (legally, it still is), and virtually all drivers were middle-aged men; by the time he sold it to some American GIs in 1988, the car was more of an embarrassment, in a sea of more modern cars (such as Hyundai's own Excel, by that time a best seller in the US). Most Ponys were scrapped prematurely due to this embarrassment factor, though the few surviving examples have proven very durable. (Reuters says one example clocked a million miles in Ecuador as a taxicab - before Hyundai bought it back.)

I have fond memories of the car, as primitive as it was; I especially remember the manual choke system and the loud highway cruise due to a lack of overdrive gear. My mother learned to drive on this car, as well, though she constantly complained about the 4-speed manual transmission, which was too much for her; while a 3-speed Borg-Warner automatic was an option, it was very rare, and those middle-aged male drivers looked down on automatic-only drivers anyway. (By contrast, now it's the stickshift that is extinct on South Korean market passenger cars.)

Some consider the Pony to be the best Hyundai ever built - I'd agree that it was the most important one. The pickup truck variant can still be occasionally seen; I spotted one during my Busan visit in 2005, as well as a couple in London. I'll be out of luck if I ever want to spot the sedan, coupe, or wagon variants during my upcoming trip, however, unless I decide to hit a car museum, as I plan on doing.

Hyundai went on to accumulate more technologies of its own, crank out even more in-house models, and rise to dominance in South Korea (and now, newfound respect in the US). Rival companies did not replicate Hyundai's feat of designing in-house models, until the 1990s (such as the 1993 Kia Sephia).

If I ever have the money, the skills, and the space to maintain a small antique car collection of my own, I'd definitely include a first-generation Pony in my collection, alongside the likes of Citroen 2CV and DS, an early Datsun roadster, and an early Mini. (Honestly, I don't have much interest in cars that are too common, like the Ford Mustang or the VW Beetle.) But the Pony is not a US-legal car (the bumpers are too small, and it doesn't meet US emissions standards), so getting one into my garage will be a challenge.

Wikipedia: Hyundai Pony
Wikipedia: South Korean auto industry history
Some info from a Morris Marina fanpage
A Reuters article from January 30, 2008
1974 South Korean commercial

Family registers

I previously mentioned that in my upcoming South Korean trip, part of my work will involve digging through family vital records.

I found some relevant Wikipedia articles, which deal with the scope of family registers in both Koreas as well as China and Japan. In fact, Japan's koseki (戶籍) system formed the basis of South Korea's old family register, which was used until this year. The koseki uses the family as the basic unit of record, and is fraught with many privacy issues; in Japan, regulations had to be enacted to safeguard sensitive information, including birthplace, lineage, and transgender status.

China runs the hukou system, which works similarly. Taiwan has a slightly more liberal version of hukou, where address of registration can arbitrarily be changed.

Nevertheless, South Korea's new individual-based registry system is a first in East Asia. It enjoyed the strong support of feminist and liberal groups, and drew condemnation of Confucian conservatives and the Moonies (who even launched a new political party promising to restore the old system). Again, I'll report more on it when I am in Seoul and in possession of my vital records.

There are no equivalent systems in English-speaking nations, which have traditionally been more stringent about collecting and maintaining personal data, though the post-9/11 US police state may be buckling that trend.

Wikipedia
Korean Women's Development Institute

22 August 2008

My Chinese genealogy

In a previous post, I identified my late maternal grandfather as South Korea's Shinan Ju (新安 朱) family, which, in turn, traces back to China (where the name is pronounced Zhu), allowing me to claim Chinese ancestry.

Some Internet search work turned up some more info. Wikipedia says that small numbers of Chinese individuals have historically trickled into Korea and, in some cases (as in my ancestor's case), founded Korean family lines. These Chinese consider themselves purely Korean, a survival mechanism to overcome Korea's homogeneity and xenophobia.

Starting in the 1880s, Manchu China sent some soldiers and merchants to Korea; the soldiers were sent to meddle in Korean internal affairs, as Korean kings were paying tributes to the Chinese emperor at the time. (Eventually, the Koreans, having learned Western-style diplomacy, declared themselves an empire.) As China evolved into a Nationalist republic then a Communist state, and as Korea itself evolved into a Japanese colony then a divided nation, the numbers continued to increase - until the military dictatorship of Park Chung-hee, when currency reforms hurt Chinese merchants greatly. Most of this Chinese community, loyal to the Nationalist government, moved to Taiwan or North America. Only 26,000 of them still live in South Korea.

Today's Chinese community, over 300,000 strong, is made up of mainlanders holding People's Republic of China nationality, and many of them are ethnic Koreans who had settled in Manchuria during Korea's Japanese rule.

Back to my ancestors. The founder of the Shinan Ju family line is pronounced Ju Jam (朱潛) in Korean (I have no idea what the Chinese pronunciation would be). He lived in Sung China, somewhere in Anhui Province (Shinan is his immediate area's name pronounced in Korean), and fled to Korea with his son and a few other individuals, settling in Naju. His arrival was sometime between 1213 and 1259, during the reign of King Gojong. By 1259, the Mongols (Yuan Dynasty) took over Korea, and was hunting for Chinese exiles, at which time Ju Jam was forced to go into hiding and use a pseudonym. Not much info afterwards, though a few key people are named, including admirals and independence activists. 1985 South Korean taxation statistics say that there were 153,474 Shinan Jus, ranking 42nd in population out of 274 surnames. (There is another "Ju" in Korea, also of Chinese origin, but it is written in a different character and pronounced "Zhou" in Chinese, so it's not the same.)

Wikipedia
Shinan Ju origins (Korean only)

Olympic Medal Count

I've not followed the Beijing Summer Olympic Games too closely, partly due to my belief that authoritarian regimes, such as China, are not deserving hosts. But the BBC article linked below has some interesting medal count remarks.

The US media counts total medals won, regardless of color; under this system, the US is the leader in the medal count.

The British, the Chinese, and most other nations, count gold medals, considering silver medals only in case of identical gold medal count, and bronze medals only in case silver medal count is also identical. Under this system, the Chinese are the clear leaders, and the British, the next hosts, claim a strong third.

There are alternate ways to count the medals, which are listed in the article, including taking the population, the GDP, and the number of athletes.

BBC

21 August 2008

Celebrity Love Matches

Turning my attention back to the Western world for a bit...

A site called CelebMatch.com uses my biorhythms to calculate celebrities who would be good matches for me in a hypothetical relationship. Of course, I had to gauge my compatibility with some of my favorite female celebrities (even though most are hopelessly straight). Some results are as follows.

Gillian Anderson: 59%
Jennifer Aniston: 54%
Dido (Armstrong): 57%
Drew Barrymore: 53%
Mariah Carey: 67%
Margaret Cho: 61%
Ellen DeGeneres: 56%
Portia de Rossi: 63%
Melissa Etheridge: 59%
Calista Flockhart: 65%
Lindsay Lohan: 91%
Sarah McLachlan: 80%
Anna Nalick: 79%
Winona Ryder: 51%
KT Tunstall: 76%
Kate Winslet: 87%

My best matches, according to this site, are:

Rebecca Romijn-Stamos and Thandie Newton, 100%
Bai Ling (yuck!), 99%
Gretchen Mol and Uma Thurman, 98%

19 August 2008

Korean religious trivia

Even more Wikipedia-reading for me. And given that South Korean and Korean-American Christianity are a major influence on theocratic politicians both in South Korea and in the US, I decided to read about South Korea's religious traditions.

Buddhism is a major tradition, though considered to be more historical than current; in fact, I will be tracking down as much of it as possible during my trip.

Obviously, Christianity is a major player. Almost all Christians are Roman Catholic, Methodist, Presbyterian, or Baptist. Historically they have been on the forefront of social reform, from Westernization and modernization to anti-Japanese activities to struggles against fascism and support of pro-democracy and pro-labor movements. With democratization, however, Christians have become the establishment themselves, and are extremely conservative, both in South Korea and in the US. Politically, Christians have previously been identified with the likes of leftist peace activist and former President Kim Dae-Jung, himself a Roman Catholic, but now form the backbone of conservatism and claim the likes of current President Lee Myung-Bak, a Presbyterian. The rise of Christianity was made possible by not only the historical circumstances I already mentioned, but also reconciliation with the prevailing Confucian values as well as the degeneracy of the Korean Buddhists a century ago. Peace churches, such as the Quakers and the Unitarians, have found much less success; I don't count on finding a UU congregation during my stay in Seoul.

The Christians have also spawned several sects and cults within South Korea, the most successful of them being the devastatingly prolific Unification Church of Sun Myung Moon. Although the fascist dictator Park Chung-Hee was a Buddhist, his government made good use of Moon in influencing US politics, especially Republican politics, in its favor.

Confucianism is more of a philosophy and a set of values than a religion in itself, and both Buddhists and Christians subscribe to many tenets of it. In fact, the marriage of Confucianism and Christianity explains why Korean Christians are more socially conservative and backward than other Christians (and also why Christianity is finding success in Chinese-American communities, as well). Buddhists also often incorporate parts of shamanism into their practice.

Several indigenous religions, as well as Islam, also have small but significant presence.

The current problem seems to be Christian extremists vandalizing Buddhist temples and statues, which, along with the rise of Christians to establishment status (a Pew Forum report attached said that the CEOs of the ten largest corporations, as well as most National Assembly members, are Christians) and hardline tactics of Korean Christians in general, has led to anti-Christian backlash. Also, Confucian and Christian historians have pretty much wiped out all mentions of LGBT culture from Korean history, and this "prevailing custom and history" is used by South Korean courts when, say, deciding against legalization of gay marriage. (Wikipedia also has plenty of South Korean LGBT info, but I will save that for later.)

Wikipedia
Pew Forum

"Subversive Books"

Despite the apparent democratization of South Korea, it appears that its Ministry of Defence still runs on a Cold War mentality, and maintains a list of "subversive books" which are banned in military facilities.

There are three categories under which these books can fall. The first is books praising North Korea in some form - politically, culturally, socially, otherwise. The second is "anti-government or anti-American"; remember that the definition of "anti-Americanism" in South Korea is really that of anti-Republicanism. The third is "anti-capitalist," and an example would be a book criticizing the management policies of the Samsung neoliberal empire.

Most books are Korean, but there are two Noam Chomsky books as well.

With the advent of the Internet and the democratization of the civilian world, however, being deemed "subversive" may actually improve a book's sales figures significantly.

Wikipedia's Korean-language article on subversive books (English not available)

Nevertheless, it bears remembering that the South Korean military is dominated by a Cold War mentality infused with Confucian and Christian extremism, like the rest of the nation's conservative mindset. The military, and US Republicans, are glorified as the protectors of South Korea's sovereignty, democracy, and prosperity, never mind that US intervention in Korean War was the idea of Harry S Truman, a Democrat. The US, like the Chinese Empire before it, is an enlightened older brother nation to be revered at all costs - in particular, when the Republicans are in power, especially since the US was responsible for starting South Korea's Protestant revolution. (A corollary: buy F-15's for the Air Force, instead of buying a European fighter more suitable for South Korean conditions. Or buy the outdated Ford Taurus for the highway patrol, instead of better cars made by companies in Korea and elsewhere.) Any deviance from this program is a hallmark of Communist leanings. This is the same prevalent mentality in the Korean-American community, as well as the Unification Church, which is busy corrupting US politics.

I'll be as outspoken as ever in Seoul, in opposition to the rampant McCarthyism among South Korea's conservatives and Christians, well personified in the landslide victory of President Lee Myung-Bak and the Grand Nationals. After all, the future of US democracy may depend on keeping them in check. I will gladly follow the footsteps of Medea Benjamin and Cindy Sheehan, fellow Americans who have protested against the South Korean brand of conservatism.

On unrelated notes, my 90-day multiple entry visa is approved, and should be ready anytime now. Also, I tracked down a copy of Korea Fantasia (mentioned in the last post) at YesAsia.com, and placed an order; it should be in my hands in time for my flight to Seoul.

More Korean trivia

This time, it's the national symbols. According to trusty Wikipedia:
  • What is now South Korea's national anthem was probably penned by former Californian Dosan Ahn Chang-ho, whose name I mentioned in the last post. It was sung to the tune of Auld Lang Syne for a long time, though today, its melody is the finale to a composition named Korea Fantasia. Wikipedia doesn't have an article on Korea Fantasia; however, I'll look for it on iTunes.
  • The national flower, Hibiscus syriacus, is extremely resilient, surviving for a long time even when cut and put in a vase. Its Korean name translates to "immortal flower." In English, its name is Rose of Sharon. I know I'll see tons of these once I land in Seoul.
  • The flag is made of Chinese yin-yang symbol and trigrams, though in Korean context, the meanings are secular rather than Taoist. Since the first use in the 1880s, many variants of the design have existed, and standardized design didn't pop up until much later. Colors weren't standardized until 1997. More on the flag (including complete specs and geometry) This flag will also be a familiar sight, as the South Koreans are as much of flag wavers as the French and the Americans.
I'll keep hunting for more trivia items.

17 August 2008

The museums

Just did even more Wikipedia trivia gathering on South Korea.

There are lots of fine museums, both within Seoul and throughout the rest of the nation. Wikipedia has a great list of these museums, including ones I hadn't even thought of.

These alone could eat up most of my free time, so I better pick and choose carefully. For now, the Bank of Korea Museum looks good, as I love collecting foreign currencies. Another museum worth a visit may be the one dedicated to Dosan Ahn Chang-ho, who fought the Japanese colonial rule; he spent much of his life in San Francisco and Riverside, California, and the I-10/I-110 freeway interchange in downtown Los Angeles is named after him. And speaking of resistance to the Japanese, the Independence Hall may also be worth a visit, despite its location in faraway Cheonan. Hoam Art Gallery at Everland will also be a good pick for traditional Korean art.

I'll be checking through a lot of the listed websites to determine which ones are worth my time and money.

Wikipedia

Ellen DeGeneres is finally married

Let me turn my attention back to the US for a minute.

Report has that Ellen DeGeneres and Portia De Rossi have finally tied the knot last night, with blessing from much of the Hollywood entertainment community.

Lesbian Power, baby!

MSN TV

Even from Seoul, I will try hard to ensure that the Korean Confucio-Christian extremists (including President Lee Myung-Bak, under fire for his crackdown on Buddhists) will not overturn California's celebration of all sorts of different families.

National ID numbers in South Korea

I'm picking up an obscene amount of South Korean trivia on Wikipedia.

Since I am obtaining vital records during my stay in Seoul, and National ID numbers play a key role, here is a Wikipedia entry, detailing what the 13 digits all mean.

Wikipedia - Resident Registration Number

16 August 2008

Itinerary Planning

Whenever I travel, I become extremely perfectionist and details-oriented. I just cannot head for my destination without planning out the list of must-cover sights, how I will navigate the streets (public transit, walking, driving, or otherwise), and relevant historical information. Of course, actual itinerary ends up different from my plans, but I still need to plan ahead - and have alternate plans, in case a sight is either closed or a dud.

This long-term Seoul trip is no exception, and I want to get a lot done during my stay. I've been checking out many South Korean websites since confirming my air itinerary, and now am starting to have an idea of what I will do. Not bad, considering that returning to Seoul was the very last thing on my mind even just a month ago.

I will be based in downtown Seoul; despite all its bustle and hustle, it's only a subway ride away from Bukhansan National Park, with its free admission and numerous hiking trails. I will certainly spend some time there; given that Seoul is a city known for its scenic terrain rather than its sorry architecture, and given that this is a retreat trip for me, it makes sense to take in the nature. I will also visit an artificial forest the city government recently built on the shores of the Han River. And speaking of the Han River, I will rent a bike, take advantage of the riverside bike trails, and take in the lovely river views; given Seoul's mad traffic, dedicated bike trails are the only safe places to ride a bike anyway.

I will also visit the city's famous sports facilities, built for the 1988 Olympic Games and the 2002 FIFA World Cup; some of the Olympic facilities are located next to a 2,000-year-old fortress, itself worth a look. In addition, there are some museums worth a look. Re-visiting the royal palaces won't hurt either. For a peek at everyday urban Korean life, I may also visit a local Costco; Costco has six South Korean locations, four of them in Seoul.

I am planning on leaving Seoul three times. One day trip will be to the Everland Resort, which is run by the Samsung neoliberal empire (grrr...) and includes the largest amusement park in the nation, a safari, an art museum, and a car museum. The car museum sounds especially interesting, as its website says it exhibits both oddball foreign cars I've not seen yet (Citroen Traction-Avant, Trabant, etc.) alongside early South Korean cars (Hyundai Pony, Kia Brisa, etc.), all of which I will be very glad to see.

I will also try to take the KTX bullet train to Busan - again. Last time, it was a day trip, and my activities were limited due to 21 heads of state, including W, taking over the Haeundae Beach resort area. This time, I will overnight, and will enjoy biking around Haeundae as well as taking in the sights I had missed last time, such as the UN Cemetery and Beomeosa Temple. I will also explore my father's former neighborhood in the Jagalchi Market area, and if possible, climb the hill in the neighborhood, which he says he climbed every morning as a teen.

The third trip will be the most adventurous; it will be a road trip! I'll rent a car and drive to the historic city of Gyeongju, often described as an open-air museum, and home of Bulguksa, the nation's most famous Buddhist temple. I expect two full days exploring the sights in Gyeongju, one day driving there, one day returning to Seoul. During the drive, I will also stop by at two other important Buddhist temples in South Korea - Haeinsa (home of Tripitaka Koreana) and Beopjusa. If this goes ahead, this will be my first driving experience on the Eurasian landmass (I've driven in the UK, but that is an island...). I'll get to experience the Korean car culture first hand. I'll need to make sure that the constant road rage that's part of the Korean driving etiquette doesn't get to me though!

It's a long stay, with endless options, possibly limited only by my pocketbook. I'll see what I'll be able to make out of this trip.

Preparations are well underway. I have my International Driving Permit, and a visa will be applied for within the next few days. Afterwards, I will order 500,000 won as my initial supply of cash (it will set me back $500 US). Research into even more possible sightseeing destinations will continue.

15 August 2008

The Old Korean Family Laws

In my last post, I mentioned my genealogy, and my need to obtain vital records when I arrive in Seoul next month in order to close the records out. In doing my research, I learned a great deal about both the old Confucian family laws of South Korea, as well as the current replacement law, along with the record format and contents going along with them. The main source of my research, in fact, was a certified copy of the old Confucian family census register, which my father had obtained in 1987 to apply for US immigration visa, and professionally had translated into English in 1994 to apply for US citizenship. It is a treasure trove of information - not only about my parents' background, but also about the primitive Confucian family laws it was based on. The Confucian family census register was used until January 1, 2008, at which point a new, more modern electronic register replaced it in compliance with the new laws. I want to discuss the contents of this archaic document while I still have it, for a look into the Confucian family system and values.

(For my paperwork filing purposes, this census register is useless, even though it's a certified copy, because the law requires me to use a certified copy no more than six months old. That's why I must get the records all over again - or if I am not traveling to Seoul, ask a relative in Seoul to do it for me.)

The first piece of information is the "permanent address" - namely, the first address at which my father registered as a head of household. This permanent address determines which district office would keep the hard copy of the register (which used to be rolls and rolls of paper) and issue certified copies, and could not be changed even if the registrant subsequently moved. For my father, the permanent address was in downtown Seoul, which was long history even before I was born.

In keeping with Confucian principles, the register's basic unit is the family, defined as a married couple with their unmarried children. The husband/father is the "head of household" and is always listed first, followed by the wife/mother and the biological children in birth order. With rare exceptions, only married men could be a head of household, a status with special legal rights; married women depended on their husbands for many legal rights, and unmarried people, even adults, needed their fathers. This system was way too simplistic in that it assumed everyone would enjoy a happy heterosexual marriage and raise their own biological kids, who would in turn eventually enter their own heterosexual marriages and raise their own biological kids; it ignored the reality of the diversity of family structures even in the Korean society, including children being raised by single parents, stepparents, uncles, aunts, grandparents, and more.

My father's individual section is quite detailed, showing his name in Chinese characters (including strain, which I discussed in my last post), the 13-digit National ID number, his parents' names, his parents' permanent address in Busan, and how he became the head of his own household (in his case, as usual, marriage). It also shows his birthplace and birthdate. My mother's individual section follows (and her parents were also Busan-based), but her information lacks birthplace information. Once I file the nationality renunciation paperwork, information on loss of nationality would also be added.

I and other children in the family are listed only by given names, as assuming my father's surname and strain was an automatic requirement. Again, National ID numbers follow, as well as my birthplace (listed as National Medical Center in downtown Seoul) and birthdate information, as well as who reported my birth (my father reported it 11 days afterwards). But little more than that. If I got married, a notation would be added to this record, and I would get a new, separate record. If I subsequently got divorced, another notation would be added, and I would again defer to my father as my head of household. If I changed my legal name or gender (the latter impossible until 2001), again, notation time. Gender change also requires a new National ID number, as its seventh digit is 1 for males and 2 for females.

Given that the basic unit of records was not the individual, but the family, getting my vital records would require getting the vital records of everyone in my household (and conversely, my records would be included whenever someone ran a background check on a family member). And this could be problematic. Any "questionable" activity that I incur - such as a divorce or a gender change - results in a notation that anyone who sees my family members' vital records can see. This often would end up working against all my family members when it was time to apply for jobs and such. The worst part was that anyone with my permanent address and name could run my records - even total strangers.

Which is why a new law and a new recordkeeping system are in effect today. And only immediate family members can run the records; others require permission of the record holder. And most importantly, the basic unit is the individual now, for even better protection of family "secrets." Pulling my father's record will no longer reveal adverse information about *me*. Concepts such as "permanent address" and "head of household" no longer exist.

Last, but not the least, most of the record is written in Chinese characters and numerals. Only postpositions and other descriptive languages not readily written in Chinese are written in Korean, and the National ID number is in Roman numerals. The Chinese numerals are a devil for me to read, because the normally simpler numerals, like 1, 2, 3, or 10, were written in complex legalese characters with many strokes, to prevent tampering. I really needed the help of the English translation to read and understand the document.

Again, what I just explained has been replaced by a newer system, and South Korean government websites already revealed to me what I can expect to see in my new reports. But I won't discuss them until I am in Seoul and in actual possession of the reports.

13 August 2008

Some genealogy work

One dirty secret that I have is that I am a dual citizen. The South Koreans consider me their national due to my birth in Seoul. Although I've been a naturalized American for a long time, and South Korea does not recognize dual citizenship, the naturalization was never properly reported to the Seoul government, so my government records are still alive - sort of. When I go to my retreat in Seoul, I will need to visit vital records offices to gather certified copies of my records, then bring them back to Los Angeles to file them, alongside my US naturalization papers, with the Korean consulate, to close the records out. (The vital records cannot be obtained at the consulate.) Not only am I eager to cut ties to the South Korean government (especially considering how much I don't like the new right-wing government), but if I ever need to do something crazy - like extend my retreat to two years - closing out my old records is a prerequisite.

In doing the preparatory research necessary to request the records, I found out some interesting facts about all my four grandparents (who are all deceased, as of 2005), and I'll share them.

A typical Korean name has one Chinese letter for family name (there are fewer than 300 possible, with half of the population being Kim, Lee, or Park, and the top 20 names accounting for 80-90% of the population), followed by two Chinese letters for given name. Exceptions do exist - some family names have two characters, some given names only one, a few given names purely Korean - but none apply to my grandparents. In addition, each family name also has a strain, in the form of the name of a city or county the head ancestor was born in (Andong Kim, Gyeongju Kim, Gimhae Kim, etc). Different strains are considered different families altogether, even if they have the same family name. The strain is normally not included in a person's name, but shows up on legal records.

My paternal grandfather was an Icheon Seo family member. (I spell the name So per the US government guidelines, but the South Korean government prefers to spell it Seo, which I will follow for the purposes of this discussion.) Icheon is a famous pottery region 50 miles southeast of Seoul, and that's where my head ancestor was supposedly born. The most famous Icheon Seo is General Seo Hui, who negotiated peace with the Khitans to the north of the Korean peninsula almost a millennium ago. I know very little of my grandfather, except that he was a playboy with lots of illegitimate children.

My paternal grandmother was a Jeonju Kim, a very distinguished family. The most famous Jeonju Kims are the North Korean Communist leadership - Kim Jong-Il and his deceased father Kim Il-Sung - making them my distant relatives. My grandmother studied in Shanghai, and was considered a very progressive, advanced woman for her time.

My maternal grandfather was a Shinan Ju. New family names and strains are often created through naturalization, and Shinan Ju, tracing back to a certain General Zhu fleeing China and arriving in the southwest coastal areas of Korea, is a perfect example. Korea is a very homogeneous and xenophobic society, so General Zhu had no choice but to start his own Korean family line and lose all hints of Chineseness. But he does allow me to claim some Chinese ancestry, and I consider Shinan Jus to be Chinese people completely assimilated into Korean society (even though they themselves identify as pure Koreans). My grandfather was very hot-headed and conservative, and had a rough edge due to his work in the construction industry.

My maternal grandmother was a Kang, and I have no idea what her strain was, but it's of little consequence as all Kangs are supposedly of one strain. She never learned how to read, but she had extremely high intelligence, which many of my cousins have inherited.

Korea's primitive Confucian family laws, recently repealed, demanded that everyone follow the birth father's family name and strain for life; no changes were allowed even in cases of marriage or adoption. The old laws also prohibited marriage between people with same surnames - a problem if you're a Kim or some other common name. The new laws do allow changing names for adoption purposes, marriage between same surnames, and following the mother's family name and strain upon prior agreement between the father and the mother. The last item would've been quite appropriate for me, actually; I've had much better ties to the Shinan Ju family than to the Icheon Seo family, my appearance is described as that of a Jeonju Kim (even though I doubt my grandmother ever wore miniskirt suits), and my brain is described as that of a Kang.

Now the work will be to actually obtain the relevant government vital records for all people involved - me, my parents, and my grandparents - so that the nationality renunciation process can go forward. The records themselves are an interesting topic, and have changed their structure and format dramatically upon the repeal of the primitive Confucian family laws, but I will save that discussion for when I am actually in possession of those records.

The retreat

Most details of my retreat/leave of absence have been confirmed.

Sometime next month, instead of driving the Alaska Highway as previously scheduled (someone else will do it for me), I will head over to Seoul for at least a month, if not more. I first freaked out at the idea of returning to South Korea, due to the Moonies and the new right-wing government (which, undoubtedly, frowns on my anti-Moon and anti-W stance), but after being assured that my retreat will be as far removed from Confucianism, Christianity, and Moonies as possible, I agreed to go.

Air transportation will be on Asiana Airlines, which I had flown twice in the past, and is one of the better airlines out there. My original intention was to grab a dirt-cheap United fare, but Asiana allows me to book an open-return ticket, which I will need since I don't know how long I will exactly be away. In any case, I still get United miles for flying Asiana.

The lengthy stay will also necessitate obtaining a tourist visa, which will allow me to stay up to 90 days, instead of the standard 30 days. This may be my biggest challenge, given that again, South Korea's new right-wing government isn't too fond of people like me.

Accommodations will not be reserved at this time. I will need an extended-stay hotel in downtown Seoul, but decided to move into an apartment near the former US Army base in Yongsan first then spend the first few days checking out suitable hotels in person. The retreat itself will take place in a secluded hilly neighborhood just north of the Presidential Blue House (which marks the north end of downtown); the neighborhood also happens to border Bukhansan National Park, where I should be able to do some hiking. A local bus line will be the link to the rest of the city (subway stations are at least a mile's walk away).

As for connectivity, I am taking my laptop and iPhone. South Korea requires a 2100 MHz phone, which my older iPhone is not, but the iPhone will still work as an iPod and a WiFi device. I will not have access to the Internet the first few days at the apartment, but will insist on a hotel that offers Internet access. I will also rent a Korean phone with a local number.

I also expect plenty of downtime in addition to retreat activities. Seoul is a large and exciting city, and should keep me busy enough, though it can be toxic at times and I'll have to watch myself. I'll also consider returning to other places in South Korea, such as Busan. Remote places that require a car will most likely be off-limits to me, though I will probably get an International Driving Permit just in case. I will also stay put within South Korea; excursions to China and Japan are more trouble and money than they are worth.

Depending on how this retreat goes, I may make another trip next year. Will see how things develop.

11 August 2008

More on the retreat

It looks like the retreat that I mentioned in the previous post will take the form of an extended leave of absence, and will take me very far away from home.

I am making travel arrangements right now. When everything is confirmed, I will spill the beans.

05 August 2008

Quiet for now

I've been very stressed out in the wake of the Unitarian church shooting in Knoxville - and the right-wing hate machine that contributed to it. That, along with the McCarthyist mentality of the local Korean and Vietnamese communities, have done a number to me (after all, to them, I am an "anti-American Communist" - never mind I know and understand America better than they themselves ever will).

I may need to take a Buddhist or New Age-y retreat of sorts to get myself in a better mood.

Will see what happens.