I am getting around using a 3-day MTR pass which allows unlimited travel on the subway system (except for stations on the Shenzhen border). It cost me HKD $300, which includes roundtrip fare on the Airport Express train and a HKD $50 refundable deposit. Not a bad deal, considering that one US dollar buys just under 8 Hong Kong dollars. The pass is in the form of the Octopus smart farecard, and works exactly like Seoul's T-Money. The currency, on the other hand, is a bit confusing to use, however, as (1) ATMs spit out high-value HKD $500 banknotes, and (2) banknotes from $20 and up have several different designs, depending on who issues the money (I have notes from HSBC and Bank of China, but there are other issuers too). The $10 banknote and the coins ($5, $2, $1, 50 cents, 10 cents) are all government-issued and consistent. Whenever Chinese numerals are used, they are complex legalese tamper-proof numerals for obvious reasons.
In written Chinese, the Hong Kong Dollar, like the Taiwan Dollar, is written as 元, the same character used for the mainland Chinese renminbi yuan. In colloquial conversation, the currency unit used will indeed be whatever the Cantonese pronunciation of that character is, rather than the dollar. And for that matter, when I return to Seoul and discuss my Hong Kong experiences, I'll use the equivalent Korean pronunciation - the won.
And speaking of renminbi, the conversion rate is about 1:1, though in reality, renminbi is worth slightly more. A few shops in Hong Kong will accept renminbi, but don't count on it.
I started off with a bit of Kowloon, but most of my activities took place over on Hong Kong Island.

Most buses are made by European firms. All cabs are old, stodgy Toyota Crowns with high roofline and automatic rear door, just like Tokyo cabs. There also are 16-passenger minibuses that go into back alleys, also made by Toyota, but I am advised not to use those as English signs/announcements are nonexistent. For the rest of Hong Kong's vehicles, Toyotas dominate, and other Japanese cars (both familiar and utterly strange) round out most of the rest, though European luxury cars are also common, and European non-luxury and Korean cars are also available, though not common. American cars are nonexistent in Hong Kong, unless you count Opels and European-market Fords; Hong Kong also requires right-hand-drive, which most Americans cars don't even offer anyway.




The British are also obsessive about lining up - or queueing, as they prefer to say, and they made sure to transfer the habit to Hong Kongers. For every bus that stops at this stop, there is a separate queue for each route. This is a really nice sight for me, as I just came in from Seoul, where queueing up is still a very foreign concept.

Cantonese is a devil to learn, so I am not even bothering, as the risk of incorrect tonal usage, and the resulting possible offenses/insults, runs too large. Fortunately, English is well spoken by most, even though Hong Kong English is British in grammar and usage, and Cantonese in accent. With so many non-local East Asians (Japanese, Korean, Taiwanese, even mainland Chinese who speak non-Cantonese dialects) visiting Hong Kong, the fact that I don't speak Cantonese doesn't come across as much of a surprise.
Tsim Sha Tsui has this great shopping mall, named New World Centre. It is connected to a number of luxury hotels. Tsim Sha Tsui is a transportation hub as well, so this area is well-developed and busy. No time for me to linger at shopping malls today, however.
In fact, I am not planning on any extensive shopping in Hong Kong, which is strange, because Hong Kong has a reputation as a shopper's paradise. I just don't have a bag that can hold anything beyond what I already brought in. And this trip is also strange in other ways. For one, this is my first non-guided Asian trip outside the Korean peninsula. And while my approach to visiting a new city is either that of an interested, curious American (as is usually the case in Europe and Canada) or that of a wannabe local (as was the case in Seoul for the past few months), I'm doing neither in Hong Kong; as some of my guidebooks were obtained from Hong Kong Tourist Authority's Seoul office in Korean, and others were bought at Seoul's bookstores in Korean as well, I'm traveling like a Korean, really, using Seoul as my comparison reference. Only my US passport says otherwise.







Lau's Cantonese name is Lau Tak-wah; it's not a name I recognize, but I do recognize his Mandarin name, Liu De-who, and his Korean name, Yu Deok-hwa.

Cheung (張) turns out to be the Cantonese pronunciation of Zhang, the most common surname in China (and the world), and often spelled Chang as well.
For that matter, my Cantonese surname is Tsui (徐). My Mandarin surname is Xu (alternate: Hsu), while my Korean one is Seo.





Another common use of the "little" character here in Hong Kong is 小心, literally "Little Mind," which means "caution." I've never seen this word before. Granted, I have some limited knowledge of Chinese characters, but I do not speak any Chinese dialects, and my Chinese characters are strictly used in Japanese and Korean contexts, so some Chinese vocabulary can be outright strange to me, even if I know the characters already. Another one that I do recognize, but don't use, is 氣車 (steam wagon), which means automobile in Chinese; I am more likely to use the Japanese/Korean version, 自動車 (self-moving wagon). The days of the week, with Sunday as 星期日 and Monday through Saturday going 星期一 through 星期六, are also completely foreign to me.



Not only this, but the infamous Internet firewall that plagues the rest of China does not exist in Hong Kong. While there were many fears about the continued vibrancy of Hong Kong's democracy after its return to Chinese rule in 1997, sharpened after the 1989 Tian An Men Square incident, it appears that Hong Kong's democracy is still going strong. I only wish some of it rubs off onto mainland China.
If anyone told me last year that Hong Kong, a part of China, was more democratic than South Korea, where a fairly progressive Constitution was enacted in 1987, I would've outright dismissed it as pure baloney. But now, it's very true. South Korea's Constitution is no longer even worth the paper it's printed on, and political dissent is now once again punishable by death - not much better than mainland China, really. At least China is a sovereign nation, which South Korea is not.
And yes, South Korean fascists are spam-commenting here again with their outdated nonsense propaganda. They'll never get past the moderation stage, however. I do think another revolution along the lines of those of 1960 and 1987 will probably be needed back in Seoul...


I then climbed the nearby Victoria Peak, by taking the Peak Tram, a 120-year old extremely steep funicular with a run time of 8 minutes. Fare is $22 one-way, $33 day return, and $150 for a combination ticket with Madame Tussaud's. The $150 ticket (Hong Kong Dollars, of course) is a very good deal, considering the exorbitant admissions charges that I've paid at other Madame Tussaud's locations in London, New York, and Amsterdam (I haven't visited the Las Vegas one yet - the only one now left for me to visit).


Hong Kong was clear and beautiful today. Temperatures at sea level were around 20C - which actually felt warmer due to the humidity. However, up here, it actually felt a bit chilly.
I'm walking around in a short-sleeved tee. So do many other tourists, especially Western ones. Locals tend to be bundled up, however, in sweater dresses and a few extra layers, thick tights, boots, and even a substantial jacket. I would bundle up just the same - but only back in Seoul with its freezing temperatures.
And now it's time to enter Madame Tussaud's and go shutter-crazy.

Long live Jennifer Aniston! (Too bad, there was no likeness of Aniston here.)


Bae is here to represent the South Korean pop culture boom that has now supplanted the era of Hong Kong movies. But with the fascist colonial regime in Seoul now, creativity may suffer dramatically in future years, and South Korea's reign will come to an end.



The left is former Prime Minister of Australia, John Howard, who served from 1996 to 2007. The right is the final Soviet head of state, Mikhail Gorbachev.








In addition to acting, Lau is also a good singer. And so was Leslie Cheung for that matter! Just ten days ago, I was driving my rental car through South Korea, listening to Lau and Cheung sing as a radio show was discussing the era of the Hong Kong movie boom.


Visitors are welcome to put on the blond wig and the white dress on the left for the exact same look. Men are especially welcome to try.


Honestly, I'd love to have a chess set that uses Kwan Yin as the queen. Using my transgender matron saint to represent the game's most important piece, itself a transwoman, would only be very appropriate. No luck finding such a set yet, however.

Lots of foreign tourists out and about today. Hong Kong has always been a cosmopolitan city and a tourist magnet, so Westerners are extremely common at tourist traps. Sure, Seoul now also has its fair share of Westerners, but never even comes close to Hong Kong levels. The Japanese are also very common. The Koreans are now found in smaller numbers, as the crash of the won keeps them at home. Many Southeast Asians, primarily Filipinos and Indonesians, also fill Hong Kong, though primarily as migrant workers. Tourist services are primarily provided (in addition to Chinese and English, that is) in Japanese, with some services in Korean as well but difficult to find other language assistances. On the other hand, it's easy to find phone cards with great rates to the Philippines - with Tagalog language prompts.



I then tried to get over to Sheung Wan using the double-deck trams (which, like San Francisco cable cars, are really tourist traps rather than mass transit), but out of change (fare is $2 coin, Octopus not accepted) and finding the trams overpacked, I took the MTR over to Sheung Wan, visiting another Taoist temple - Man Mo Temple, dedicated to literary and martial arts, and honoring General Guan Yu. Didn't find much that I could recognize, but I bought three magnetic street signs - one for Hong Kong, one for Kowloon, and one for Tsim Sha Tsui - for $15 each. At least I got to finally see a Guan Yu shrine, and a real Chinese example at that, as back in Seoul, Dongmyo remains under renovation.


I bet cross-border automotive travel is a nightmare. China drives on the right, and uses left-hand-drive cars, so taking a Hong Kong car into the mainland (and vice versa) can get very dicey and dangerous. Moreover, foreign visitors like me are not even allowed to make such drives, as China does not recognize foreign driver's licenses, even with International Driving Permits. The only way to drive in China is to be a long-term resident and become eligible to apply for a Chinese driver's license. Of course, IDPs are acceptable in Hong Kong, but the city is so compact and well-served by mass transit that driving makes no sense.



It bears remembering that homosexuality was a capital offense under Mao Zedong, though China today is quite tolerant of LGBTs (but certainly not trans lesbians, who don't fit into the Confucian rigid social struct). Over here in Hong Kong, the British criminalized homosexuality for a long time too, under their Christian belief system. Hong Kong maintains freedom of religion even today, and indeed there are fundamentalist Christian groups out and about, though they are nowhere as obnoxious and aggressive as their counterparts in Seoul as well as Koreatown USA. Plus, Seoul Metro-style subway proselytizing is out of the question, as MTR trains get quite packed during rush hours.
I took part of the half-mile-long escalator system to return to MTR and Kowloon. The escalator line is the longest such line in the world.
My original plans called for getting back out to Avenue of the Stars for some night lighting spectacle, but I am too tired to continue, so I'd rather stay inside and do some writing.