I am in Seongnam, southeast of Seoul, and a direct trip to Uiwang, either by car or on buses, shouldn't take long. But I no longer have a car, and didn't feel like deciphering Seongnam's bus system, so I decided to take a long detour, using the subway system. It involved three transfers (Bundang Line to Seolleung, Line 2 to Sadang, Line 4 to Geumjeong, then Line 1); it's also possible to do it with only two transfers but leading to huge increase in travel time (Bundang Line to Seolleung, Line 2 to Sindorim, then Line 1), or with four transfers for slightly shorter distance but negligible time savings (Bundang Line to Suseo or Dogok, Line 3 to University of Education, Line 2 to Sadang, Line 4 to Geumjeong, then Line 1). Travel time was 90 minutes, and fare was 1,600 won with T-Money and 1,700 won if using cash, meaning a distance surcharge of 700 won.

There were lots of Christian extremist missionaries out and about in the subways today, especially in Seoul Metro sections. I am so incensed that I will boycott Seoul Metro (Lines 1-4) as much as I can from now on. Seoul Metro is also the worst-run of the three subway operators, anyway. Sure, Seoul Metro has the most services into downtown, and I'll probably have to keep riding some of them, but Line 5 of SMRT also goes there, and I can get on Line 5 from Seongnam via Line 8, another SMRT line. Line 5 will also take me to Gimpo Airport tomorrow, where I can take the A'REX airport train to Incheon for my flight to Hong Kong. Korail also runs lots of trains into downtown Seoul, but they are on Line 1, and stop at Seoul Metro stations, forcing me to use Seoul Metro turnstiles and therefore give Seoul Metro ridership and revenue.
Much of Seoul Metro's current policies can be blamed on the city government, headed by Mayor Oh Se-hun, a "Grand National" (Republican) who makes 2MB look like a bleeding-heart liberal, and of course 2MB's hand-picked successor. SMRT appears to be less impacted by the city government's colonials for some reason.

and of course the Rail Museum, my destination today. The museum is located 10 minutes on foot from the station, along this 2-lane street which follows the rail line south. There are several signs pointing the way - all in Korean only, however.
Here, next to some ancient shacks, I can see a restaurant serving what some consider a delicacy and even an aphrodisiac - dog meat soup. I'll pass, no matter how hungry I am. And honestly, after discussing South Korea as a US Republican colony, I must say this: if South Korea were a true US colony, this sight would be illegal, and I'd actually be very relieved. Too bad it's the colony of a discredited minority political party instead.
The museum is cheap; it's only 500 won for an adult. It's of interest to definitely hardcore railfans, but even for others, especially history buffs, it may be a nice half-day trip. I have a healthy interest in transportation - trains, planes, and automobiles - so this was a good day. I must admit, however, that on a pissy day like this, I'd rather head out to Incheon Airport and greet (or send off) a United Airlines Boeing 777 - until recently, my primary means of traveling the world.

I am in a full-scale mockup of the KTX II bullet train, a native Korean train developed with technology acquired from the French TGV trains that were part of the original KTX program. KTX II will enter service in 2010. With two locomotives and eight passenger carriages, it will serve low-density routes that the current 18-carriage KTX trainsets cannot profitably serve. As the bullet train line was built, conventional lines were also upgraded with double-tracking and electrification.
Korail's eventual hope, according to the video playing inside this mockup, is to launch services into North Korea and onto the Trans-Siberian, Trans-Manchurian, Trans-Chinese, and Trans-Mongolian routes. That will enable speedy and affordable delivery of freight to/from Europe, compared to maritime routes. Korail will also get to carry Japanese freight that would prefer to use rail from South Korea on, rather than maritime shipping. The video also features British, Canadian, and other visitors taking a ride on the KTX bullet train and giving it heaps of praises.

This Korail 3100-series diesel-electric was built by ALCO in the US, and Korail started buying these in 1959. Its top speed is 105 km/h (65 MPH). In 1960, it launched the Mugunghwa (Rose of Sharon) express service, making the trip from Seoul to Busan in 6.5 hours, a half-hour savings from before.


This train has a top speed of 110 km/h and the ability to run on both AC power (preferred by Korail) and DC power (preferred by City of Seoul). And it certainly looks a lot like the Tokyo subway trains of that era.
The blue livery with white stripe was the hallmark of Korail's subway trains until well into the 1990s. City of Seoul also bought some of these trains and ran them alongside these Korail trains, but they had white body with red stripe, to signify the then-line color of Line 1.
Of course, in 1981, Seoul created a new public corporation, Seoul Metropolitan Subway Corporation, to take over the operation of city-owned subway lines. It set a precedent followed by other subway systems throughout South Korea. In 2005, this company renamed itself to Seoul Metro.


The air conditioning system overhead is an add-on. For a long time, Line 1 did not feature air conditioning, and passengers complained mightily. All subway trains since, starting with the 1980 models put into service on the first sections of Line 2, have come with factory air conditioning.
This is also a look at the pre-fireproofing Seoul subway car interior. The wall panels are colored, while the seats feature plush velvet. There certainly are none of the electronic visual displays for upcoming station stops and other information that I can expect to find in current trainsets. But in terms of physical dimensions and the basic layout, the current trainsets and this car are completely identical (although SMRT's trains have roofs a couple of inches lower).

Red is the 1974 Line 1, administered by Seoul Metro, covering the underground portions of the line. Blue is "National Rail," the catch-all phrase at the time for all Korail sections; it extends from Line 1, north to Seongbuk and south to Incheon and Suwon, and offering through service on a mix of Korail and Seoul Metro trains, just like today. (Now, the whole line is called Line 1, and is dark blue, extending north to Soyosan, and the Suwon branch running all the way south to Cheonan.) From Yongsan to Cheongnyangni, a separate branch also runs; long considered part of Line 1 and labeled as generic "National Rail" for ages, now that branch has extended east, and is now called a separate Jungang Line, with the line color of jade. Seoul Metro's Line 2 shows up in green as a complete circle line, which was completed in 1984, but Lines 3 and 4, opened in 1985, don't show up here yet.
The romanization scheme used on the map is the Ministry of Education system, which is similar to the current Revised Romanization system, but with literal transliteration of Korean consonants into their English equivalents with no regard for actual pronunciation. Soon after this map, the Ministry of Education system was abolished, replaced by the McCune-Reischauer system, still used by the US and North Korea, far more friendly to the foreign visitors, but hated by the locals. That lasted until 2000.

The first Line 1 trains had 4 to 6 cars. But in the late 1980s, extra cars (identical to these, but with factory air conditioning) were built to lengthen the trains to ten cars. While the original trains have all been retired and scrapped due to legal age limits, the extra cars are still within legal age, and still in service, inserted into newer trainsets. Seoul Metro even has a consist that is made up entirely of these extra cars.
When Seoul Metro retires its aging Lines 2 and 3 rolling stock over the next year, they won't be scrapped. They will be refurbished and put into service in Vietnam.


Of course, now most major lines are electrified in South Korea, and work continues to electrify the remaining lines.

Before I go on, I need to discuss the various hierarchy schemes used by Korail to classify its passenger trains. The long-standing system, used well into the 1990s, is as follows:
- Saemaul (New Village), the super-express, limited stops and air conditioning, 4 hours and 10 minutes from Seoul to Busan
- Mugunghwa (Rose of Sharon), the express, some more stops and air conditioning
- Tongil (Unification), the normal, lots of stops and no air conditioning
- Bidulgwi (Dove), the local, even more stops and no air conditioning, over 12 torturous hours from Seoul to Busan, but dirt cheap
- KTX, the bullet train at 305 km/h
- Saemaul, the express, in green or blue
- Mugunghwa, the normal, in red
- Commuter, the local, replacing the Tongil but now air conditioned

Its interior has fixed seats facing both directions, and is non-air conditioned.


Behind me, there also are a wash basin and a toilet. However, it's an old style toilet that flushes onto the tracks; warnings remind me not to use the toilet when the train is stopped.
When I went to Gimcheon and Jikjisa in 1980, I probably traveled in a carriage similar to this.

Korail has re-opened part of Su-in Line as a section of Seoul Subway Line 4, using standard gauge. Construction is under way to re-open the rest of the line to standard gauge subway traffic as well; when completed, dedicated Su-in trains, as well as Line 4 trains and Bundang Line trains via Suwon, will travel the line to Incheon, where they will terminate together and offer a transfer to Line 1.


This map shows the bullet train line from Seoul to Busan. Blue is the new high-speed line opened in 2004; dotted part is under construction and will open in 2010. Red is the conventional line sections used by the bullet trains. Black is the rest of the conventional line. Red circles indicate active bullet train stations, while blue circles indicate either dedicated train yards or a future bullet train station. White circles indicate points where high-speed tracks diverge from/merge back to conventional tracks, but are not stops in themselves. The dotted green line indicates an extra bullet train service; however, it currently uses conventional lines, and high-speed lines in that direction won't even start construction until at least 2014.
The right numerals indicate travel times. White numerals indicate travel times from Seoul on the KTX service. Yellow numerals indicate time savings over conventional Saemaul trains.



Nearby is a display showcasing the Gyeongui (Seoul-Sinuiju) Line, with construction starting in 1904 and fully complete by 1906. Built for the use of the Japanese military in the Russo-Japanese War, the line involved forcibly conscripted Korean labor and lots of land grab, leaving the Koreans unhappy and protesting the rail system. Eventually, it served as a valuable rail link, and saw improvements and upgrades to double-tracking, before the division of Korea cut service for good, and the war severely damaged the line. Currently, South Korea runs a single-track line to Dorasan, with double-track electrification between Seoul and Munsan under progress, and a recently restored connection to Kaesong; North Korea runs a single-track electrified line from Kaesong northward. There is even an introduction to the four major stops on the line - Kaesong, Sariwon, Pyongyang, and Sinuiju - with notable sights accessible from each stop.
On the subject of North Korean rail network, it's been much better at electrification than South Korea, with almost all lines electrified early on, but very poor at double-tracking. And the network is now in very poor shape due to the economic collapse.

Bottom: before rail, horses were the main means of long-distance travel in Korea. There is a row of ten medals, increasing from one to ten horses; used by governmental officials and others, the number of horses indicated the bearer's rank.

September 18th continues to be marked in South Korean calendars as Railroad Day, though it's not a holiday, and is of significance only to railfans.

At this time, most other Asian nations, and many other nations around the world, already had rail systems; the UK and the US already boasted extensive networks. Korea was relatively late to the railroad party.

The left is a standard locomotive, similar to American models (and in fact, imported from the US well into the 1970s), used for both passengers and freight. The right is a passenger train-only locomotive, with a small passenger compartment, and put on either end of a modern-day Saemaul consist with typically six passenger carriages in between. Saemaul trains have two bogies per car, so the carriage number may vary, and cars may be shuffled around; by contrast, KTX uses the shared-bogie design of the French TGVs, so the whole consist is permanently coupled.


In 1950, in the early days of the Korean War, North Korean forces marched quickly south, and South Korean and US forces abandoned Daejeon and retreated to Daegu. However, a US Army battalion was trying to defend Daejeon to the end, and it was trapped. To save this battalion, Kim volunteered to run a steam locomotive to Daejeon, pulling a train with 33 American commandos on board. However, as the train neared Daejeon, the North Koreans ambushed it and killed everyone on board. Kim's heroics turned him into the first railroad worker to be interred in the South Korean National Cemetery system, in 1983.
As this exhibit, and most of the rest of the museum, dates from 1988 unchanged, the language used to honor the heroics of Kim - and the war situation - is decidedly very McCarthyistic, referring to the North Korean forces as "illegitimate invaders" for example. By contrast, the newer exhibits, which showcase future plans for connecting South Korean rails to the rest of the Eurasian landmass, uses much more conciliatory language toward North Korea, reflecting the recent trends that the 2MB colonial government has now ended. There is definitely a very split personality here at this museum.


Oddly enough, all TGVs in the two above photos show the newer power car design, even though both AVE and KTX use the older power car designs. Thalys uses both.

Now, of course, it's possible to use the Internet to reserve, and to print out tickets at home, though in reality, it's difficult without using one's National ID number or passport number. Cell phone users can even use their phones as tickets.


Middle: special tickets issued for inaugurations of various subway lines, by Korail and Seoul Metro. The two top left tickets, from 1985, commemorate the opening of Lines 3 and 4, and invite the holder to take a ride from Sindorim (Lines 1 and 2) to Chang-dong (Lines 1 and 4) for free - hopefully incorporating portions of all four lines then in existence. I had them myself back in the day.
Right: early-model Korail electronic tickets, printed on a dot matrix printer.


On February 20, 2002, W showed up at Dorasan Station, and signed this railroad tie, with a message: "May this railroad unite Korean families." However, W has completely botched his handling of North Korea, and his colonial servants in power in Seoul today continue to do so. My only solace is in the fact that W is now a lame duck and soon to be gone, to be replaced by Obama, and that the Seoul colonial government is now a servant without its master.
There was also a section dedicated to the engineering aspects of Korean railroads, complete with signaling and electric delivery systems. I took some interest, but didn't take any photos. The first Korean electric railroad was opened in 1924, serving North Korea's Diamond Mountains as a branch of the Seoul-Wonsan line; the line no longer exists, though plans have been floated to rebuild it for South Korean tourists. That line used 1,500 V DC. In 1973, the oldest existing South Korean electric line opened, with 25,000 V AC.
Currently, 1,500 V DC is used for subway lines (except for Korail-operated lines, which continue to insist on 25,000 V AC, and among the few subway lines worldwide with AC power), while 25,000 V AC is used for mainline service. Seoul Subway Lines 1 and 4, jointly run by Korail and Seoul Metro, require voltage switching (which involves coasting on battery power for a minute) and dual-voltage trains, while Line 3, also jointly run by the two, oddly runs only on 1,500 V DC, the only Korail line with that distinction. Line 3 also runs its trains on the right, using Seoul Metro rules - even on Korail sections - and is controlled by Seoul Metro dispatchers; even Korail trains on the route are built to Seoul Metro specs, and serviced by Seoul Metro staff at a Seoul Metro yard.
Maybe I should stay off all of Line 3 as well, as the Korail involvement is in name only, and the Korail section is isolated and requires traveling through the Seoul Metro section (therefore giving Seoul Metro some of the fare revenue). It's a poorly planned line with crooked detours (especially south of the river) and the worst rolling stock anyway.

- 444.5 kilometers to Busan (southeast)
- 427.3 kilometers to Mokpo (southwest)
- 166.9 kilometers to Daejeon (south)
- 38.9 kilometers to Incheon (west)
- 377.4 kilometers to Gangneung (east)
- 260.7 kilometers to Pyongyang (northwest)
- 496.0 kilometers to Sinuiju (north)
- 943.8 kilometers to Najin/Rason (northeast)

Here's a very old electric locomotive on a dry run. This is the type put in service in 1973 on the only South Korean electric line then. Now, there are many more electrified lines - in fact, the entire conventional line from Seoul to Busan, this very line, is also electrified - so this aging locomotive is finding lots of extra uses.
It wears the current red-blue Korail livery.

In South Korea, a government agency is responsible for planning and building mainline tracks, while another government agency, Korail, owns them and runs the trains. The only non-Korail trains on Korail tracks are those of Seoul Metro. (All other subway operators in South Korea use their own dedicated tracks.) There are no privately owned/operated rail companies in South Korea just yet, though 2MB certainly wants to privatize some parts of Korail in sweetheart deals to crony contractors, and the union is upset.
This busy stretch of track, between Seoul and Suwon, was quadruple-tracked in 1981, according to the museum exhibits, to facilitate service and accommodate both subway trains and mainline trains efficiently.

It's bare metal, except for the doors. All Korail subway trains use the common dark blue on the lower parts of the doors, but the upper parts use different colors for each line. Line 1 uses the line's former color - red. Jungang Line, formerly considered a branch of Line 1, also uses red. Line 3 uses orange, while Line 4 uses light blue, and Bundang Line uses yellow; all three colors are the current official line colors for each line. Those color combinations often look ugly (I prefer the more tasteful Seoul Metro and SMRT color schemes, even though Seoul Metro's trains are junk), and I wondered why they were so; now I understand.
Lines 2, 5, 6, 7, and 8 do not have Korail service, and neither do any other subway lines in other South Korean cities.

I need to figure out where this museum is, so that I can surely visit it after my Hong Kong trip, and before my US return.
Of course, this is a thing of the past. Former hilltop shantytowns are now luxury neighborhoods, with power, water, and great views (whether the former shantytown residents are properly compensated upon their eviction is another matter, however). But many people, even the well-to-do, certainly remember the poorer times before industrialization.

I took the same route back to Seongnam. Both Line 1 and Line 4 segments were on Seoul Metro trains, even though all of the Line 1 segment and almost all of the Line 4 segment were on Korail tracks. And once on Line 2, of course Seoul Metro, I got so incensed in the crowded, propaganda-laden train (with a seatmate who was clearly a supporter of the Republican colonial government) that I had to jump off only after two stops, and take a less crowded train two minutes later, even though it was just as propaganda-laden. I'm still so incensed that I hope to never see the interior of a Seoul Metro train for a while, if ever.
Can't wait to fly to Hong Kong and get away from the US Republican madness in South Korea, if only for a few days.