Showing posts with label Koreas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Koreas. Show all posts

19 May 2010

Possible complications to this summer

In late March, the South Korean naval destroyer Cheonan sank under mysterious circumstances, claiming 46 lives. And as an international investigation concludes, it appears that not surprisingly, a North Korean torpedo is most likely to blame.

BBC

As I prepare for what may become several more months of life in Seoul, it bears remembering that the war never ended on the Korean peninsula, and only a 57-year-old cease-fire is keeping the hostilities from resuming. Having made the border areas part of my 2008 road trip, I have seen things first-hand.

This despicable development, according to those in the know (including, according to another BBC analytic article, a North Korean lieutenant who defected south and claims to continue contacts with his former colleagues north), is a way for North Korea to respond to South Korea's cutoff of unconditional aids, and to pressures from the US and the international community to return to nuclear disarmament talks. There is also a need for North Korea to "demonstrate" that even in the midst of a power transfer from Kim Jong-il to his third son, things remain "in control." Though methinks a deadly form of provocation like this is very likely to backfire badly.

Any sign of open hostilities would easily put my meditation plans into chaos, for sure. But on the other hand, even sitting in the US will not be a guarantee of safety. The South Korean far-right and the Korean-Americans, having already successfully convinced half of America that President Obama is a Muslim extremist, do need their excuse for more despicable McCarthyist activities after all, and there is no better excuse than northern hostilities. I will be vigilant wherever I am - and I am staying away from far-right propaganda-laden Korean restaurants (that's all Korean restaurants in the US, except for Brothers in San Francisco), until further notice. (I'm also boycotting fellow McCarthyists of Vietnamese restaurants for the same reason.)

13 May 2010

Asia again?

When I logged three months in Seoul in late 2008, it was in the form of a meditation regimen that wasn't quite finished at the conclusion of my stay. While meditation was valuable, I also found my travel and cultural experiences, throughout Seoul, the rest of South Korea, and into Hong Kong, to be just as valuable.

It looks like as my work slows down a bit, I will once again make Seoul my home for a bit, for a few months, to continue where I had left off. The goal will be to restore my health to the levels I had when I was wrapping up my initial stint, and to further bring up my energy-pooling abilities to a point where I can easily meditate even in an energy-vortex-devoid place like Southern California. (Only then will I be able to even consider spreading my good energy to others; right now, it's more like spreading negativity.)

Only preliminary details are being put down now, but I am in touch with my contacts in Seoul, and it looks like I will resume Seoul in 2-3 months. I was glad that a number of people found my tidbits from Seoul very valuable, and I am glad to continue on that path. I am also glad to know that supporters of South Korea's far-right government (including the vast majority of Korean-Americans) will once more find their blood pressure going up, as I dig up even more inconvenient truths; however, Chinese speakers will be a bit bummed, as I don't intend to go to a Chinese-speaking area this time - I expect to spend my off-time in Japan instead, which will be my first stint in Japan.

In addition to Japan (which will most likely take me to Tokyo, plus a more traditional part of Japan), I expect to do two trips within South Korea - one road trip to fill in the gaps from my initial 2008 one, and one quick flight to Jeju Island in the far south; both will also have an emphasis on South Korea's democratic struggle against domestic dictatorships, as places like Gwangju, Yeosu, and Jeju have been well-known for pro-democracy demonstrations, as well as the violent response from the right-wing dictators.

Assuming that the far-right government isn't out to ban me, I may even look at possible options for future work stints. I can run my US-based business by email and Internet just fine, my physical presence in the US will be necessary once a month at most. Of course, I will apply for proper work visa before I take up any employment. Proper work authorization will also mean that I can do economic activities (bank accounts, etc.) in South Korea and also enroll in its public health insurance plan, though it also means that I must cough up my alien registration number to the police state authorities to do my Internet activities. Will see what happens.

15 September 2009

Looking back, and looking forward

Today marks the first anniversary of what I now must call "the mother of all my journeys" - my lengthy stint in Seoul. I have friends who suffer from a "reverse culture shock" whenever they return to the US from an overseas trip, and after this trip, I had one too - one that I have yet to recover from. My Facebook profile, among other places, now identifies my hometown as Seoul, rather than Los Angeles, and my current Southern California location shows up as something more akin to a reluctant reality.

Listening to Mariah Carey in person this past weekend was a good reminder of last year, while at it. I had started listening to her during my first visit to her hometown of New York City, and my subsequent trips/residencies in New York City and Seoul really involved her music. When I met Mariah in late 1994 in New York, I was talking about memories of listening to her in Seoul. And when I was driving along the Han River on Seoul's Olympic Expressway during last year's residency, Mariah was playing in my rental car's CD player - and the river view reminded me of driving on the Henry Hudson Parkway in New York. To be with her again in person last week, and to have her close the rather short performance out with "Hero," was a good reminder of everything.

According to Wikipedia, "Hero" has a very interesting history. It had been written as a soundtrack piece for a movie of the same name, to be sung most likely by Gloria Estefan, since Mariah didn't want to do anything with movies then. She only agreed to write the song, but when the song was finished, her then-fiance Tommy Mottola was so impressed that he asked her to keep the song for herself. In the end, a Luther Vandross song was inserted into the soundtrack instead, and "Hero" became the #1 hit for Christmas 1993 - and Mariah's eighth US chart-topper. It continues to be covered by many aspiring artists, and has become a sentimental favorite for many people, me included. I'm grateful that "Hero" remains the one song that must be included in all Mariah Carey concerts - even "Vision of Love" has lost that status now.

Wikipedia also has some info on "Without You," the 1970 Badfinger song that was made famous by Harry Nilsson shortly thereafter. Over 180 other covers of the song exist, and of course, the 1993 Mariah Carey cover is the best known. She recorded the song after hearing it at a restaurant - a modest start to another hit that's become yet another sentimental favorite of mine. It was much more popular in Europe than in the US. I've had tough luck listening to this song in person, however; the only time I could do so was way back in 1995.

Now it's time to carry the memories of my past, by looking forward. What happened to me in Seoul and Hong Kong last year serves an inspiration as I try to plot the most meaningful European trip possible, even with my time constraints. In just over a month, I will be on my way to Munich, the first destination. I want my two weeks in Europe to not pale in comparison to what I experienced in Asia last year, and in order to do that, I'll need to do some research. This blog took on a very heavy Korean accent last year and has yet to lose it, and Hong Kong added a bit of Cantonese accent as well; now, I need to inject some heavy German accent here as well, since the trip is about picking up a Mercedes-Benz, and Germany is indeed the country I am most concerned with.

I guess some discussion of Das Deutschlandlied ("The Song of Germany"), which is the national anthem of Germany, will get started. It has other alternate titles, such as Das Lied der Deutschen ("The Song of the German People") and the never-official Deutschland über alles ("Germany Above All"). Its familiar melody dates back to a Haydn composition in 1797, which was an anthem to Holy Roman Emperor Francis II, one of the Habsburgs; for the English speakers, the melody is familiar due to its frequent use as a Christian hymn, with John Newton lyrics.

The lyrics, written by August Heinrich Hoffmann in 1841, have a very interesting story. There are three verses. The first verse deals with the rise of Germany as a new nation, out of the hundreds of smaller countries of the Holy Roman Empire; it sings of Germany's territory stretching "From the Meuse to the Memel, From the Adige to the Belt," the territory much of which has been lost through two World Wars. Today, the first verse is unlikely to be sung by anyone other than neo-Nazis. The second verse is a drinking song, with the starting verses of "German women, German loyalty, German wine and German song." The third verse starts with "Unity and justice and freedom," the current national motto of Germany, and is suitable as a national anthem without the nationalist/fascist overtones of the first verse. During the German reunification, only the third verse was declared as the official national anthem; before then, because of the still-fresh memories of Nazism, the song had been banned right after World War II, and remained only an unofficial national anthem for decades afterwards.

I am intending to head for Germany with a good working knowledge of things that the average German ought to know. That will ensure that I will enjoy every bit of my time there. I want to enjoy driving a Mercedes-Benz in its native habitat as much as I enjoyed driving a Hyundai in its own native habitat. Driving along the Rhine shore ought to be as satisfying as driving along the Han - or the Hudson. The only difference should be that the Mercedes-Benz will be coming home with me.

13 September 2009

Concerts, concerts...

I am in Las Vegas, having just walked away from a special Mariah Carey concert - my fourth time seeing her in a concert setting, and my fifth encounter with her overall. She becomes the fifth major act I see in 2009, and I don't expect to see another concert for the rest of the year, so I want to go ahead and do some recap.

Mariah Carey tonight. Her hair is curly - a throwback to her early days. This show, part of a special run of four at The Palms in Las Vegas, is in a very intimate setting, a departure from her normal big arena shows. Who knows, this may be a test run for a long-term headliner residence that Celine Dion pioneered back in 2003.

Most of the numbers performed were the catchier ones that Mariah's main fan base - twentysomethings - prefer. However, her last two numbers were to my liking. One was a remake of Foreigner's "I Wanna Know What Love Is," which is to be released in a few days as Mariah's newest single, and it sounded far better than my expectations. The absolute last number was "Hero," a very sentimental song that always leaves me in tears. Any Mariah Carey concert I walk away from in tears (that's all that I've been to so far) is a good one in my books.

Although no photos were allowed, many fans did sneak digital cameras in, and before the ushers started cracking down, lots of photos were taken during the first number or two. I was one of those fans - that's how I managed to have a photo at all.

A few weeks prior. The Grove, a posh mall in Los Angeles, likes to feature talented artists every Wednesday night in August for a free concert for shoppers. And Michelle Branch was there on the night I went to the Grove. Great show! I got a good mix of different numbers - some from her early pop days, one from her later work doing a country duo called The Wreckers (the other half of The Wreckers, Ashley Monroe, was present as well), and a few from a new album still to come that is country-flavored pop.

This was my second time catching a free show at the Grove. The first time was in 2006, when I experienced another excellent singer-songwriter, Anna Nalick. While I hung out with Anna and walked away with an autograph, I did not bother to go that far for Michelle.

Backtracking to June and the San Francisco LGBT Pride. The San Francisco Pride has lots of great entertainment, especially at this stage located in Civic Center Plaza, and the entertainers are often supportive heterosexuals from out of the area, or even out of the country. And here is the proof.

BoA, the Korean pop sensation who's moved millions of records in Japan, is making her first US-market appearance at the San Francisco Pride. While she had performed in the US previously, those occasions were for the Korean-American community using her Korean singles, but this is the first performance for the general American public involving English-language singles specifically for US and worldwide consumption.

I loved seeing BoA in this setting. Anything that connects San Francisco's LGBTs to the good everyday people of South Korea who made the last few months of 2008 special for me, rather than the theocrats of South Korea's government and the Korean-American community who worked so hard to take away California's marriage equality at the same time, is a good thing in my books.

And backtracking even more to March. I am at Honda Center in Anaheim. This is a special double-feature concert featuring Sir Elton John on the left and Billy Joel on the right. It's my fourth time with Sir Elton, and first with Billy.

I loved this show - a friendly duel of two top-notch piano men! They often made fun of each other in unusual ways. For example, when Billy Joel sang "We Didn't Start the Fire," the overhead screens displayed whatever world event he was singing about, and when he sang "England's got a new Queen," which actually refers to the coronation of Elizabeth II in 1952, the screens showed a photo of Elton John instead!

As my previous Elton John shows were very recent - 2004, 2005, and 2008 - parts of this show felt like a routine to me, rather than something to be excited about, even though the show itself was top-notch.

And back to tonight, I walked away with that same "routine" feeling when it comes to Mariah Carey. Again, it was my fourth show with her as well. Even with new songs and playlists, there is only so much change a given artist, especially one with decades worth of hit repertoire, can do. While I will continue to attend shows of my proven favorite artists, I will have to look for some new favorites to enjoy as well.

09 June 2009

Update on Vital Records

I discussed South Korean vital records - especially as I was obtaining them myself six months ago.

I'm pleased to say that I have taken the next step with those vital records. Proper paperwork has now been filed with the South Korean consulate in Los Angeles, to inform them of my US citizenship, and therefore deactivate my records. A certified copy of the deactivated records will be mailed to me from the consulate, once the records are processed and deactivated in South Korea.

This is a step that I've looked forward to for a long time, but couldn't quite carry out due to my lack of understanding of South Korean laws. But I'm glad that I've gone through it. For now, it makes clear that I am no longer the subject of the treasonous 2MB government in Seoul.

And after a saner government takes power in Seoul, I will continue to benefit. My status is now clear - an foreigner with former South Korean nationality - and that status makes me eligible for a wide range of rights in South Korea, should I decide that I need them. For starters, I am eligible for a two-year residency visa that can be renewed indefinitely, and that visa also allows economic activities and all other rights of a South Korean, except military service and voting. Even South Korean nationality, with full rights, is possible - though it'd be treated as a "restoration" rather than a "naturalization." (I'd be expected to renounce my US citizenship within six months, if I take this route.)

A more likely scenario, however, would be for me to use the South Korean papers in my possible future application for Canadian residency. The Canadians would certainly want to see my current papers for US citizenship, but would also want to see official documentation of my birthplace information. My identity change and other relevant information can easily be supplied from the US court records.

In any case, this step is a win-win for me - and I am glad that I can move on with my life.

30 May 2009

Update on President Roh

More news trickles in via BBC and other sources in the aftermath of Roh's funeral and cremation. Currently, Roh's ashes are temporarily interred at his hometown, while the family decides on a worthy permanent resting place for him. Meanwhile, over 5 million people were known to have paid their respects to Roh at official altars, including many outside South Korea, including a few hundred people in major US cities. (Of course, as Roh was completely despised among Korean-Americans, I was surprised that anyone actually paid respects stateside.)

Analysis comes in in the form of what the South Korean people will make out of Roh's legacy, and it appears that a consensus is forming. Many believed that 2MB's prosecution of Roh's corruption charges was politically motivated, and now that Roh is dead, there will be serious backlash against 2MB. (In fact, when 2MB paid respects to Roh's coffin, he got many boos.) Many prominent people are giving opinions that Roh's ideals of bringing unity to the South Korean society, and opportunity to its working class, are to be revered - even if Roh did not exactly do a good job of carrying out those ideals himself - and that 2MB's policies have served to really fracture and divide the South Korean society.

Based on my observations in Seoul, and based on what other Americans on long-term assignments in South Korea have shared with me, I am very well convinced that the 2MB presidency is all about taking South Korea several decades back, into outright oppression and outdated McCarthyism. Even stateside, I have paid for this - in the form of all the false rumors about my own current President, and in the form of Proposition 8 in California. If Roh's death finally spurs the better South Koreans to take a firmer stand to defend their democracy, restore South Korea's rule of law (and sovereignty), and ensure that their taxes are spent on themselves rather than far-right special interest groups stateside, then South Korea will end up doing a huge favor to itself and all the freedom-loving people of the world, like it did before through its democratic struggle.

Thanks to regulations which require a current South Korean resident registration to apply for memberships at South Korean websites, I am not able to join pro-democracy groups, much less contribute to them. But I do want to help out with this new phase of democratic progress in any way or capacity I can.

Of course, the fresh round of very raw belligerence from Pyongyang complicates things further. But I've read the analyses on this as well, and nothing is unpredictable. North Korea must remember that any hardline actions on its part will only serve to legitimize the 2MB rule that it detests so much, and more importantly, they go completely against its rhetoric of serving the entire Korean race. 2MB must also remember that his policies have, in turn, have legitimized the North's belligerent actions. If the Confucian model of diplomacy, long held standard in the region, is to be put into action again, South Korea must be able to take the high road as the more mature, more affluent of the two regimes, and treat North Korea as any mature older brother would treat a younger, impoverished brother throwing temper tantrums. (Read: a good mix of sticks and carrots.) And most importantly, I do hope for good decisions stateside as well; while open hostilities will certainly result in more income for the US defense contractors, the US will more than pay for it with massive loss of goodwill, and must do everything it can to broker permanent peace. A new war in Korea is certainly bad news for China and Japan as well - and definitely extremely bad news for the world economy.

Many people in the US and around the world have pointed out to South Korea as a role model to look up to when it comes to people-powered democracy. It's time for that reputation to be upheld - and to hopefully spark other democratic movements around the world, including the US. (The Obama Presidency was only just setting the stage - the people now MUST speak up and tell Obama what to do.) This is a time of crisis, but if handled correctly, the results will be more than worth it. Even for me, I'll be happy once the circumstances change to the point where the Korean-American community will have to choose between changing and becoming irrelevant.

28 May 2009

Funeral of ex-President

South Korea's Roh Moo-hyun that is. He committed suicide last week, and I got the news during my sightseeing in Toronto. Right now, the funeral live stream is being piped into my room, straight from the familiar grounds of Seoul's Gyeongbok Palace. (After all the months spent in Seoul and my frustration with the uneducated theocrats of Los Angeles, I now list Seoul as my hometown on Facebook, and sincerely do feel that way.) The funeral is being held as a "national funeral" appropriate for a former President, with invocations from all major South Korean religious traditions. (Roh was agnostic - something the Korean-Americans found unacceptable.)

During Roh's political career, there were too many scandals and verbal gaffes floating around - and Roh was an extremely unpopular figure. He wasn't too competent a leader either; his education never went beyond high school, and his bar license was obtained through self-study in the 1970s. The right hated him for his unchecked unconditional aids to North Korea, and the left hated him for backstabbing them through sending South Korean troops to Iraq and negotiating a free trade agreement with the US (the free trade agreement that's never mentioned in the US). Roh's unpopularity was a key contributing factor to the current presidency of far-right Lee Myung-bak (2MB). (I certainly do NOT like seeing him - especially as he entered the funeral grounds in his BMW.)

But now that Roh is gone, a more complex portrait of the man is emerging. During the 1987 democratic revolution that brought real democracy to South Korea, Roh was a key member of the pro-democracy movement in Busan. In 1988 he entered politics as a National Assemblyman, and took key part in prosecuting ex-Presidents Chun Doo-hwan and Roh Tae-woo (unrelated) for their 1979 military coup and 1980 civilian massacre. And when his ambitions turned presidential in 2002, he promised to take South Korean democracy into a new era and mentality. Of course, walking across the DMZ, then doing the most historic road trip ever in Korean history - a drive to Pyongyang - was noted by the entire world.

The legacy is complex. Roh was proof that power tends to corrupt even well-meaning individuals of modest backgrounds. (If power didn't corrupt, maybe those communist revolutions of the 20th Century may actually have succeeded, and Hugo Chavez of Venezuela wouldn't be such an a-hole either.) I am still well convinced that he did not offer much substance to the people he ruled. However, he did leave a legacy, and the South Korean democratic struggle cannot be discussed without Roh. In his death, that may be what Roh may leave the people of South Korea with - a continued call for democracy that keeps the power grab of the current government in check, and also ensures that 2MB will serve his subjects rather than US-based far-right special interests.

And bringing the focus back to the US, the fact that President Obama is not fulfilling his campaign promises - something angrily noted by many liberals including many of my friends - needs to be put into perspective. Obama must serve many different interests, including conservative nonwhite theocrats of California, the large defense contractors, and more. All those special interest demands will eventually corrupt even the best of his intentions, and unfortunately that is to be expected. I also don't want Obama to have sweeping powers to change things overnight either; a too-powerful President, even a "good" one, is always dangerous, as well demonstrated by W. I no longer consider myself an enthusiastic Obama supporter, and while he listens a bit more than W, I'll just put it at that, and keep pressuring for not only change from Obama himself, but from the American society at large. (Honestly, I find the ethnic theocracy of California to be hopeless... I need to leave. Next post will talk about that.)

I am more than happy to share my observations of South Korean society and politics with Americans and other good people of the world (I'm especially having great exchanges with other Americans with significant South Korean time under their belt - and we all agree that 2MB has been going too far), in hopes that all the nations involved will have better governments and societies in the long run.

23 May 2009

Toronto: Kickoff

I have yet to upload my DC photos, but now that I am in Toronto, I will go ahead and upload today's Toronto photos first.

I was supposed to fly United Airlines to Chicago yesterday, then change planes there to reach Toronto. But about four hours before departure, an automated call from United informed me that my Chicago flight was cancelled. United rebooked me automatically, but due to the long weekend, my next possible flight had to wait until this morning, reaching Toronto 16 1/2 hours behind schedule. I called the Premier dedicated hotline - and had myself rebooked on an Air Canada nonstop instead. It turned out be a great flight, and I arrived in Toronto 45 minutes earlier than I would have otherwise.

As I await my Air Canada flight, I am getting a look at another fine member of Star Alliance, the alliance that both United and Air Canada founded. That is an Asiana 747, with registration HL7428, operating as Asiana 201 and heading for the runway to start its 13-hour journey to Seoul. The last time I left the US, it was on that very aircraft, for the second installment of my 3-month Seoul stint (which eventually also took me to Hong Kong).

My flight on Air Canada (my first ever on Air Canada, and the third Star Alliance member I fly on) was on a standard Airbus A319, which nevertheless featured a video-on-demand system. Selections were not great, and air show was not available, but it did keep me busy almost all the way to Toronto. My re-booking was done as a full-fare economy ticket, so I did not even have to pay for the inflight snacks and sandwiches, but I did pay $6 Canadian for a can of Molson Canadian beer, just to set the mood right. (Not too impressed with Molson's taste, however, and I'll never drink any alcohol during a flight ever again.)

Pearson International is a lovely airport - reminds me a lot of Incheon, even down to crummy ground connections to the city. Due to the late-night arrival I shelled out $49 (Canadian, of course) plus tip for a cab ride downtown.

It's late morning, and I'm out for my first day in Toronto. I'm passing by Eaton Centre, located on Yonge Street, Toronto's main north-south street and also known as the longest street in Canada. My hotel, for that matter, is meditation-themed Pantages, only a block to the east.

Loving those billboards. There is an HMV record store, where I can buy the newest albums from two fine Canadian chanteuses - Celine Dion (representing Quebec and the French-speakers) and Sarah McLachlan (representing Nova Scotia & British Columbia, and the English-speakers).

During the previous day's Air Canada flight, I did find the Sarah McLachlan album - the Closer compilation - and make sure to listen to it. Did not find Celine Dion, but I substituted with an American, Mariah Carey.

My first sight: St. Lawrence Market. There are lots of weird things available there, including sausages and other food items. Some are imported from Ukraine - or wherever else the various immigrant communities of Toronto hail from.

These sausages are Canadian domestic, but I took a photo to note its gender stereotyping.

Canada is very proactive about recruiting immigrants, and has a much better immigration policy than the US policy full of political calculations. Toronto overflows with a zillion nationalities - I see plenty of Muslim women with headscarves (and even a burka) around, and hear more languages than I can ever count. Even Spanish, which I associate more with the US than with Canada, is widely taught. And even though Ontario is an English-speaking province, I don't think a French speaker would have too much of a problem here (unlike Quebec, where speaking English is difficult, and British Columbia, where virtually nobody speaks French). And even with this flow of immigrants, Toronto managed to be the first North American locale to legalize gay marriages. Shame on you again, California!

Leaving the market. I took this photo just to remind myself that I am in Toronto. Yes, I am back at Yonge Street (pronounced Young). And the CN Tower can be seen from just about anywhere in town.

Another photo seen around the market. Sure, I may be north of the border, but President Obama is quite popular even here (maybe even more so than in many parts of the US). The Obama Presidency does signal that the US is walking away from 8 years of W cowboy diplomacy, and that Canada's own W puppet, Stephen Harper, is with fewer political options. I don't imagine that Toronto would have too many Harper supporters - most of them are out west in Calgary and Edmonton.

Back on the subway. I am using a $9 flash pass, good until 5:30 AM the next morning for unlimited travel on the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) system.

Even though Canadian government services are more extensive than those in the US, community organizations still have key roles to play. Again, I am reminded of Toronto's polyglot makeup. Residents can get mental health services in the languages listed in this ad.

My intended destination was Royal Ontario Museum, which would require me to turn east from St. George station served by both of TTC's main subway lines. But as station vicinity maps always show north first (and I am used to them oriented the same way I'm facing, as was standard in Seoul), I got confused and walked west. Now I'm getting lost on the main east-west artery, Bloor Street, but getting lost is part of the fun.

Here is a liberal Christian congregation, which appears to welcome LGBTs. The congregation also has a Korean-language service. I don't think I'd see this mix back in the US - no Korean Christian church in the US would be caught dead sharing facilities with an LGBT-friendly congregation.

Speaking of the Korean community in Toronto, Koreatown sits on Bloor, further ahead to the west. In fact, I'll reach its eastern end at Bathurst before getting back on the subway to return to St. George and Royal Ontario Museum.

Still walking west on Bloor. Here is a sexy poster for sale at an alternative art gallery.

Now I am at Royal Ontario Museum, which combines a natural history museum with a world arts museum. And in either capacity, the collections are outstanding.

The Chinese collection is especially exhaustive. Thanks to the clout of the Chinese-Canadians (especially with all the Hong Kong wealth that migrated to Vancouver, and to a lesser extent, here to Toronto), Chinese culture gets healthy respect in Canada.

The above are three Chinese Kwan Yin statues, including an eleven-faced example and a fertility example. At Royal Ontario Museum, Kwan Yin is always referred to by male pronouns, but the captions do make it clear that from the 12th Century on, Kwan Yin was depicted in an increasingly female manner.

Two more Kwan Yins. There are over a dozen examples of all descriptions at Royal Ontario Museum. It was great to be reminded of my Hong Kong trip six months ago, where I got a near-overload of my transgender matron saint.

The Korean collection doesn't enjoy the support that the Chinese collection (from Chinese-Canadians) and the Japanese collection (from Japanese corporations) do, but it's still healthy.

No Kwan Yins, but I do see a newborn miniskirted Buddha, which is extremely rare even in Korea. The bronze water pitcher is also a familiar shape (though I'm more likely to see it in the form of the blue celadons). Speaking of blue celadons, there are a few dozen here, but none really stood out.

Back to Chinese collection. Here is a look at Chinese imperial building coloring scheme. I love it.

Some South Asian art. Here are some Hindu sculptures. It appears that in both examples, a male deity and a female deity are bonded together. The casual Western observer would interpret them as sex scenes, but in reality, these are not erotic, but express the Hindu understanding of making something whole by combining the male and the female.

Six-armed Shiva, of course.

Tibetan Avalokitesvara - or the male version of Kwan Yin.

A model of the gigantic Athena statue that once stood in the Parthenon in Athens. The statue was removed after Greece became an Orthodox Christian nation, and the Parthenon was converted to a church. Eventually, the Parthenon became a gunpowder storage area, and an explosion reduced it to today's ruins.

Speaking of Athena, I'm back at that airline simulation game again - again flying Air Athena out of Athens. This game is set in the 1970s, however, and I am required to battle the spiking fuel prices and interest rates using the short-range, inefficient airplanes of the era. So far, I'm doing well.

Two examples of Tibetan goddess Tara. Tara is often considered another version of Kwan Yin, as she is born from the tears of Avalokitesvara. The left is the Green Tara while the right is the White Tara. There is no ambiguity as to the gender identity of Tara; she is always female. I need to study Tara more, however, including the significance of the various varieties.

My favorite extinct animal would have to be the ichthyosaur, which was a dolphin-shaped marine reptile that lived during the dinosaur era. Here is a really nice example of an ichthyosaur, found in England, but not identifiable as a specific species. Of course, Britain, being a shallow sea 150 million years ago, had a huge ichthyosaur population.

There is a textile department at Royal Ontario Museum. Here are three modern outfits I like. The red suit and dress are from the 1950s while the black suit is from 2004. The red suit had been in a very poor shape, with torn linings and all, but was nicely restored.

I was wishing for a 1990s miniskirt suit, however. :)

An extinct species of a huge turtle, suspended from the ceiling. That's a cast of a fossil rather than a real fossil.

Museum shop, with a huge Kwan Yin for sale. Glad to continue encountering my transgender matron saint.

A shot east on the Bloor subway line brought me to Danforth Avenue, home of Greektown, probably the most famous/important of Toronto's ethnic neighborhoods. Greektown is the largest Greek enclave in North America, and Toronto as a whole has more Greeks than any North American city except New York.

As I had eaten a rather large breakfast at Fran's next to my hotel (Fran's is a Canadian equivalent chain to Denny's in the US), I didn't eat here. I'll be eating here later on, however. The Greek restaurants here run the gamut from run-down hole-in-the-wall places to touristy trendy expensive places to everything in between.

As seen in the photo, the street signs are in Greek as well as English. The word "avenue" is translated into "odos" but some of the Greek spellings of non-Greek names end up being interesting.

I had a bit extra time, so I shot back west on Bloor to Christie Street, the west end of Koreatown. There is a nice park in that area, but I decided to walk east across Koreatown.

Here is the Korean Senior Citizens' Center, marked by flags of South Korea and Canada.

This Koreatown is a pittance compared to the humongous one in Los Angeles, but is nevertheless respectable. A Korean speaker in Toronto can find just about everything s/he needs - grocery stores, travel agencies for those airline tickets to Seoul, restaurants, even karaoke bars. I was happy to not have to come across extremist megachurches, though the grocery store had a Christian propaganda newspaper published in the US.

Thanks to a more sensible immigration policy on the part of the Canadian government, and thanks to a different demographic of Koreans coming to Canada (more of a lifestyle choice than an economic opportunity), the Korean-Canadians on the whole are probably more sensible than the Korean-Americans. On the other hand, Korean Christianity is never to be trusted, and Christianity does play a key role in all Korean communities of the Western world; many Korean-Canadians, after all, are Christian extremists who are waiting for an opportunity to move on to the US. Another reason to move to the US: the Korean-Canadian community, unlike the massive Korean-American community (or the Chinese-Canadian community for that matter), is not at a self-sustaining level yet.

There is one more Korean note to write down. Toronto's subway system feels a lot like a better-maintained version of the New York subway, but it does have modern LCD TV status monitors that run news updates. Those monitors stated that South Korea's Roh Moo-hyun, who was the President as recently as 15 months ago, committed suicide. The last thing South Korea needs is another high-profile suicide!

After walking across Koreatown, I returned to Bathurst, but instead of the subway, I took the streetcar down to Queen Street West. After going one stop east on Queen on another streetcar, I walked all the way back to Yonge.

There are lots of boutiques here - I ended up with a $9 belt from American Apparel (as American Apparel is made in Los Angeles and therefore cheaper in the US, I decided not to buy its other products today), as well as a $60 white shirt from Aritzia, a Canadian boutique chain. At Aritzia, the fitting rooms are a bit odd; I am required to store my purse in a locker, and the cubicles do not have mirrors so I must come outside for a check on the mirror. Not fun when I was working a sheer tunic blouse as a dress (with a cami and tights underneath) and the shirt was barely covering my derriere. I do have to say that I was far from alone in doing that "tights as pants" thing on the streets of Toronto today. And in terms of fashion in general, Torontonians are not standouts, but they do express their individualism and accessorizing very well - certainly better than Angelenos.

Walking further east, I came across this sight. This is another of those things I don't think I'll ever get to see stateside. The US is running its War on Drugs not as a serious attempt to regulate drug usage for the public's safety and health, but as some sort of a vendetta. The Canadians are a bit more level-headed on this issue, but of course there is a lot of American pressure to crack down. I hate drugs of any kind (even tobacco and alcohol are too much for me usually) but I don't like the US policy at all (which has actually turned the illicit drug industry into a very lucrative one).

Lovely graffiti on a side alley branching off of Queen Street West. This is something my Seattle-based friend DiAnne Grieser would like (in addition to all the Kwan Yins and turtles). She is known to photograph local and foreign graffiti all the time.

The British, through the Magna Carta, established the concept of freedom of speech. Today, the northeast corner of London's Hyde Park has a Speakers' Corner, where anyone can give a speech on any subject.

Toronto is doing just the same. Here is Toronto's own Speakers' Corner. The only rules are that I may not give hate speeches targeting a specific demographic (I guess Miss "I Believe in Opposite Marriages Only" California will have to shut up here), and that I am responsible for anything and everything I say, including any adverse reactions from listeners.

Another British reminder: there is a Winston Churchill statue in the distance.

It was a warm, humid day, and my feet hurt, so I returned to my hotel room for a quick rest and change, then after a quick Mexican dinner at Eaton Centre, went to CN Tower.

CN Tower may not be the tallest building in the world anymore (there is a taller structure in Dubai now), but its top observatory remains the highest man-made observation platform in the world.

I am at the main observatory, which includes this glass floor section. I am looking 114 stories below to the ground level. And if anyone on the ground is looking up, they can see all the visitors lying down on the glass - as well as my lingerie preferences. (I did change into that white Aritzia shirt, and added a long suit jacket, but I am still doing that "tights as pants" thing, just like that other lesbian fashion icon, Lindsay Lohan.)

The top observatory, called the Skypod in English and la Nacelle in French, is 147 stories above ground level. I do have to say that with the Toronto area lacking any major geographical features, most of the inland views were quite generic, and not too impressive. But the Lake Ontario views were quite nice, from the Toronto Island and its airport in front to the faraway shores of New York State. On a very good day, I am told that I can even see the plumes of Niagara Falls - and the buildings of Rochester, NY.

That wrapped up Day 1. Now I need to figure out what Day 2 will be like, though I'll be sleeping in a bit as the TTC subway doesn't start its Sunday service until 9 in the morning.

21 May 2009

Politics through karaoke

I really enjoyed karaoke during my time in Virginia. And even in California, karaoke continues on - though for now, it takes the form of the Asian karaoke studios where I can get a "score" for my singing (and where, of course, I can sing hits of various Asian nations).

I was doing just that last night, and decided to make a political statement to be shared with my party. Thumbing through the Korean selections, I picked out two songs to be sung back-to-back.

One of them sounds like a love song, but is really about the failed May 1980 pro-democracy uprising against the military government of Chun Doo-hwan, which had risen to power via a December 1979 coup. Hundreds of demonstrators were gunned down in the southwestern metropolis of Gwangju, a traditional hotbed of left-wing political activities. Chun insisted, for years, that this was simply a Communist insurrection that had to be put down, and only with the 1990s civilian governments was this tragedy seriously revisited. The US was alleged to be doing some of the shooting alongside South Korean troops, and of course, from 1981 on, the Reagan Administration gave Chun tons of moral support, orchestrated by the Moonies. (When democracy finally came in 1987, the Moonies were the ones panicking the most.) The 1980 bloodshed made up for countless anti-American protests all over South Korea throughout the 1980s (and again, organizers would often find themselves in jail for trumped-up charges of collaborating with the northern Communists).

The other was a 1984 government propaganda song, which celebrated South Korea's continuing fast economic growth, the supposed freedom and opportunities of the society, and the upcoming hosting of the 1988 Summer Olympics, which was probably the greatest honor that the Chun government could boast. It did prove to be a huge hit in South Korea thanks to its cheerful lyrics - even among critics of the military government - and was revived for the 2002 FIFA World Cup as host South Korea's national soccer squad was having extraordinary success.

By singing those two songs, from the opposite sides of the political divide, back to back, I had a chance to share stories about South Korea's decades of military dictatorship, as well as its McCarthyist mentality that still lives on with the Korean-Americans.

For those who actually know Korean pop culture, the following are the actual songs I sang:
  • 신형원, 불씨 (the song about the failed pro-democracy uprising)
  • 정수라, 아! 대한민국 (the government propaganda)
In the future, I look forward to the opportunities to tell more stories via karaoke, regardless of which language I sing in (or which country the songs come from). Too bad my J-Pop knowledge is nonexistent, and I won't be singing J-Pop anytime soon! And on my next visit to South Korea, I will surely be visiting Gwangju, which now has a special cemetery and memorial dedicated to the dead protesters of 1980.

30 December 2008

Los Angeles: Korean Friendship Bell

This past Sunday, the last one of 2008, was spent again aboard Gwaneum One - in a very fitting way to end a very meaningful year. Here's my recap of the day.

I brought Gwaneum One to my home church - Neighborhood Unitarian Universalist Church in Pasadena. This church has been one of Southern California's leading proponents of gay marriage, and I am glad to call it my spiritual home.

The Toyota Prius next to Gwaneum One bears many progressive-themed bumper stickers, and is quite typical of the cars that show up here. There is a good mix of all makes and models here; in the far right, another Hyundai (a black Santa Fe SUV) can be seen. I also counted three BMW 3-series sedans too on this day, which made me cringe, but it appears that most people are less in the know about BMW's evil deeds than I am, so I'll have to let it pass. I'll just make sure to spread the word on why I gave up a BMW to drive a Hyundai.

After some shopping opportunities (which yielded nothing that I had wanted), I drove south to San Pedro, to visit Fort McArthur, now Angels Gate Park.

This park's claim to fame is the Friendship Bell, a gift of South Korea's military dictatorship to the United States for the Bicentennial. I came here for a photo op for Gwaneum One, but ended up getting far more than that.

This dedication plaque, dated to July 4, 1976, is in English and Korean, and dedicates the bell to the American spirit and a long, prosperous alliance between the two nations.

Too bad, in the name of "preserving" that American spirit, South Korea's government and the Korean-Americans have been very hard at work destroying it instead!

On January 28, 1981, President Chun Doo-hwan came here and planted this tree. He had seized power through a bloody military coup the previous year, and his US visit, within the first few days of the Reagan Presidency, was to ensure that Reagan would legitimize and back his rule.

Not all was bad under Chun, however. He had vowed to step down at the end of his 7-year term, though his ulterior motive was to install his military buddy Roh Tae-woo in an indirect election. The South Koreans were fed up with this move, however, and revolted, forcing Chun to accept direct elections. Roh did succeed Chun, but had to win the presidency the hard way - real votes in a fair direct election.

Korean village guardians - Great General Under the Heavens, and Female General of the Underground. These are very familiar sights to me by now (in fact, a smaller pair even guards my bedroom), and I am glad to see them here again.

The bell pavilion. A lovely sight!

Detail of the pavilion sign and the color scheme. The colors need some restoration work, I must say; between the ocean breeze and the strong Southern California sunshine, Korean-style color decorations have a hard time keeping up.

Here is the bell itself. It is a massive bell, modeled after the Emille Bell back in Gyeongju, which was part of my road trip last month. It really feels like by coming here, I extended my road trip by another month and 6,000 miles. The only change is that I showed up in Gwaneum One, instead of Gwaneum Zero.

The bell is actually the same size and design as the Emille Bell, making it one of the largest bells ever made. Yes, it does come with a special acoustic chamber that is unique to large Korean bells. And in a few nights, its sound will fill the skies of San Pedro, as 2009 is rung in.

The exterior features four pairs of figurine images: a Statue of Liberty, paired with a Korean counterpart.

The ceiling colors are very vivid, as they had not been exposed as much to direct sunlight. I also get a good look at the acoustic chamber.

Another look at the pavilion, with the Palos Verdes hills to the northwest.

This is a very clear, breezy hilltop, and an excellent place to put a bell pavilion. And this plot of land is surrounded by water on three sides - south, east, west - and that has parallels to the Korean peninsula, which itself faces water in the same three directions.

A look east allows me to observe the busy harbor activities in San Pedro and Long Beach. In the distance are the hills of Orange County.

Looking south, I can see the Santa Catalina Island. In all my years in Southern California, I never got to travel out there.

There is even a small exhibit hall in this park, maintained jointly by South Korea's Cultural Service (under the auspices of the South Korean Consulate of Los Angeles) and the City of Los Angeles Parks Department. I am inside.

This is a map of Korea and vicinity, produced by South Korea's government mapping service. Korea is shown as a unified nation. The major islands of Japan and the northern populated areas of China (as far south as Shanghai) are also shown. Until a month ago, this map had pretty much described my extent of Asian travels; now, I've gone beyond this map, by visiting Hong Kong.

There are some pieces of art here, including this golden Pensive Bodhisattva. I had seen so many of these during my three months in South Korea, and I am glad to see one right here in Los Angeles.

More traditional Korean art. I can also take in modern Korean art, including the Mashimaro animated character and other pop art items.

There also are many tourist posters. They show lots of things, from Bongeunsa Temple next to Seoul's COEX Mall to Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju. I had visited more or less all of them, and was glad to be reminded of my past three months.

I really feel that by coming here, I extended my South Korean sojourn.

The exterior of the exhibit hall. The flags of the US and South Korea are hoisted outside, and the bell pavilion is in the distance.

There is a sizable parking area here, almost full on this beautiful day. Many local residents like to hang out here for barbecues, for kite flying, for basketball, and for many other activities. A few Korean-Americans trickle in from all over Southern California as well.

Gwaneum One is in the center left, and today, it's the only Korean car in sight here - but a very appropriate one at that. In 1986, on the tenth anniversary of the bell, a visitor could've, for the first time, shown up in a South Korean automobile - the lowly Hyundai Excel. The visitor may have also brought a Samsung boombox or portable cassette player. In the late 1990s, a visitor could've shown up in a better car - probably a Hyundai Elantra - and his/her laptop would've boasted tons of LG semiconductors. And today, I brought Gwaneum One featuring an LG navigation system - though I don't have an LG cell phone on me (I love my iPhone too much). By contrast, back when the bell was first dedicated, the most advanced South Korean goods available in the US were primitive AM radios and black-and-white TV sets. At least they were more advanced than their predecessors - human hair wigs!

A farewell shot of the bell pavilion, with the Catalina Island hills to the far right.

Looking forward to doing some more driving soon. I had missed this year's LA Auto Show due to my Asian trip, so I'll make up for it by driving down to San Diego for the auto show there. I'll stay far away from the BMW stand, but will definitely hang out at most other stands, just to see how most manufacturers' cars stack up against Gwaneum One. I'll certainly hang out for a while at the Hyundai stand, and talk to other visitors about how luxurious my Gwaneum One is! And of course there is that Las Vegas trip that I must also do. If I feel up to the task, I may even consider Palm Springs and/or Santa Barbara.

19 December 2008

De-briefing and more

Over a family dinner, I was debriefed as to what had happened during my absence:
  • The wildfires had forced an evacuation of my place, and my BMW and other things had been moved for the duration.
  • Los Angeles County, during the general election, voted for a 1% sales tax increase to fund transportation improvements. That makes my sales tax rate 9 1/4 %, and honestly, I don't think Southern California deserves any more of my money than what it already gets from me.
  • Gay marriage is again banned, though by a very narrow margin. Duh.
I also shared some of my South Korean and Hong Kong observations, and further stated that if 2MB and the Moonies are behind the Obama-bashing and other US right-wing initiatives in any way, they must get their behinds kicked. Also, I do feel that there is a parallel between North Koreans destroying South Korean LGBT rights under the blessing of the 2MB government, and Third World immigrants destroying Californian LGBT rights under the blessing of the Republicans. I'll stand for neither, and the fair-minded people of both areas are with me on this.

The biggest statement I can make to the world, and most importantly to myself, over these developments, of course, is to proceed with my car swap. I made sure to clean out my BMW already; documents and other items that I must give up with my car are already loaded in it (except for spare parts, which will be taken care of today), while things I must transfer to my new Hyundai have already been taken out of the car. Today, I'll drive the BMW for the first time since my return; first, it'll allow me to assess its condition, and second, I'll get to drive it to a CarMax for a written appraisal. I'll continue to drive it through tomorrow, when I finally give it up and take delivery of the Hyundai.

I've still given no one any indication of my car swap. And that's the way I intend it. Nevertheless, I can no longer feel good/ethical about driving my BMW, and life is too short to be wasted in cars like that. The only reason I can even stand driving it from now on, is only because I am driving it to get rid of it.

And one more thing. I still can't believe that Hyundai now makes cars good enough to replace my BMW! I did discuss the Genesis with my coworkers and others - and all of them are telling me about how every review raves about the car. I guess it really is time to shut up, and start actually driving the thing. Sure, I was too young and too poor to drive the Lexus LS400 twenty years ago (and I still wouldn't, as I really hate Toyota), but I'm counting myself fortunate that I can afford the Genesis now, and make up for that. If my new Hyundai inspires someone else to buy his/her own, hopefully in place of a BMW, then I'll be happy.

18 December 2008

Korea Recap: Final Photos

Here are my final photos from Seoul, mostly from December 13th, except for the final one from December 14th.

This announcement board adorns a subway station on Seoul Metro's Line 2 under Euljiro. It's quite interesting.

The bottom center asks South Koreans to save a billion liters of petroleum. This can be done by asking ten million petroleum users to conserve 100 liters (25 gallons) each. Relying more on mass transit, rather than driving, can easily save 100 liters of gasoline in under a month. Saving 100 liters of crude oil could be a bit more of a challenge, however, as one liter of crude yields several liters of gasoline.

The top left, from the National Human Rights Commission, says: "Differences can't be discriminated against." Various characters, from the homeless to a black rapper to a gay man to a transwoman, speak out about themselves, and why discrimination is foolish. My favorite character, however, is a cat, who says, tongue-in-cheek: "I think humans are pathetic too. Can I discriminate against you humans too?" Never mind that the commission's rulings are nonbinding, and that the 2MB government would rather not listen to them.

Further evidence of the 2MB policies are on the top right, a standard thought police poster again reminding me to turn in every leftist in sight for a 30 million won reward.

Here is a map store. I can pick up road atlases, globes, and more. It's closed in this photo, but could be of interest to me on a future visit.

The store is run by Seongji, South Korea's leading map publisher. My road atlas for last month's road trip was published by this company too - and it was excellent! For now, I brought my atlas to the US, so that (1) it'll be a reminder of the road trip and (2) I can plot my next South Korean road trip, which may be as early as next spring.

The Republican city government is threatening this mall and all other subterranean malls too, by attempting to sell them to the highest corporate bidder who is certain to jack up rent and bring in only corporate shops. This store has a protest banner as well: "Choking the throats of mom-and-pop merchants. Grand Nationals, blow yourselves up."

Here's another store, one that makes signs, often lit, all Christian. It's one of the few that doesn't feature a protest banner.

This is one of the signs made by the store, showing the Christian genealogy running from Adam to Jesus, as documented by the Bible.

A tourist map of Jeju Island. I'll certainly fly over there the next time I am in South Korea. On top of all my statues from the past three months, I can definitely use a pair of harubangs.

Jeju tourism promotion office, closed for renovation.

The message on either side of the door - ᄒᆞᆫ저옵서예 - means "welcome." It's in Jeju dialect, and the standard Korean equivalent would be 어서 오세요. Most mainland Koreans recognize that word from Jeju, plus harubang (grandfather), but that's about it.

I certainly look forward to being thrown off by the utterly strange dialect when I arrive in Jeju. I'll also love taking in the island's unique culture and sights while at it too.

Now, I've arrived at Incheon Airport, cleared security and immigration, and picked up my Canon camera. Time to kill a few hours before my flight to Los Angeles boards. I took this photo, even though planespotting is technically illegal at Incheon, or any other South Korean airport that matter. (Many South Korean airports, including Busan Gimhae, are military airfields, so the no-photo rule would be strictly enforced at such places.)

The above is a Korean Air 747 with special arts promotion livery, complete with a Mona Lisa. That plane will fly to Sydney after sunset.

For that matter, Asiana also ran a flight to Sydney the same evening, though on a standard 777. Asiana does have a special livery 777 to commemorate the opening of its Paris route, and I saw it, but it was operating to Hanoi instead. My flight to Los Angeles, yet another 777, wore the old mocha gray paint job.

Asiana's passenger 747 fleet is down to five now, and I spotted three of them: HL7417 (combi) which had brought me back from Hong Kong, and now going to Singapore; HL7418 (pax) which flew me from LAX to Incheon twice, sitting overnight for a Beijing run the next morning; HL7428 (pax) which flew me from LAX to Incheon once, often flies the President, and was operating to New York, departing at the same time as my LAX flight. It was glad to see these travel companions again.